1977 BMW R100RS Installing the Fairing and Seat

I just published two new write-ups; one on installing the fairing and the other on assembling the cowl and seat and installing them.  Here are links to them.

Next, I’m working on a write-up that shows how I assembled the bike starting with the frame through the gas cap.

Here are pictures of the final results.

Clear View Wind Screen & Headlight Lens Installed

Faring, Windscreen and Mirrors Installed

Cockpit View

Cockpit View

View From Seat

View From Seat

Right Side View

Right Side View

Rear Cowl Decal and Rondel Installed

Rear Cowl Decal and Roundel Installed

A far cry from what I started with:

Headlight Panel Cracks Are Extensive

Headlight Panel Cracks Are Extensive

Headlight Panel Cracks

Headlight Panel Cracks

Top Side Panel Large Crack

Top Side Panel Large Crack

Windscreen Damage

Windscreen Damage

Seat Cowl Dent

Seat Cowl Dent

1977 BMW R100RS Cleaning Up The Electrical Wiring and Components

The wiring was in dire need of either replacement or refurbishment.

Starter Relay Contact Corrosion - Green and Gruesome :-)

Starter Relay Contact Corrosion – Green and Gruesome 🙂

Starter Relay Wire from Battery (+) Cable-Grungy

Starter Relay Wire from Battery (+) Cable-Grungy

Starter Relay Wires Removed (Brown Wires are Really Red)

Starter Relay Wires Removed (Brown Wires are Really Red)

I have posted two write-ups. The first is about how I removed all the wiring and electrical components.

The second covers how I refurbished the wiring getting rid of grunge, green corrosion and repaired terminals, and then how I installed the main harness, sub-harness’ and electrical components.

I also shot a video showing how I routed the wiring.

1977 BMW R100RS Install Connecting Rods and Top End

Previously, I removed the heads, cylinders, pistons, rings and connecting rods. I installed new rocker arm needle bearings to replace the broken bearing cages. I disassembled the heads and inspected the valves and seats. You can read how I did that work here.

You can read about how I did this work here:

Top End Rebuild Work

I had the Nikasil cylinders replated and honed to match the new high compression (9.5:1) pistons. I had the connecting rods refurbished and I had the heads rebuilt. So now it’s time to put it all back together again.

The cylinders had the push rod tubes and the two short studs at the 12:00 and 6:00 position of the heads removed, so I also have to install them.

I started from this:

Ready To Remove Heads & Cylinders

Ready To Remove Heads & Cylinders

Engine Out of Frame

Engine Out of Frame

Piston Crown with Carbon

Piston Crown with Carbon

Rod Components

Rod Components

Score in Right Cap Bearing Sheel

Score in Right Cap Bearing Sheel

Right Side Crankshaft Throw

Right Side Crankshaft Throw

Cylinder Grunge

Cylinder Grunge

Left Exhaust Lower Rocker-Recovered Needle Bearings and Cage Pieces

Left Exhaust Lower Rocker-Recovered Needle Bearings and Cage Pieces

Right Intake Rocker Busing

Right Intake Rocker Busing

Right Intake Rocker Shaft

Right Intake Rocker Shaft

Valve Assembly Components

Valve Assembly Components

And finished with this:

Push Rod Tubes Installed

Push Rod Tubes Installed

Piston with Rings Installed

Piston with Rings Installed

Sliding Cylinder and Piston onto Long Cylinder Studs

Sliding Cylinder and Piston onto Long Cylinder Studs

Ready to Snug Cylinder to Engine Block-Push Rod Tube Rubbers Started

Ready to Snug Cylinder to Engine Block-Push Rod Tube Rubbers Started

Left Head Orientation-Exhaust to Front

Left Head Orientation-Exhaust to Front

Top End Installed

Top End Installed

Valve Cover Installed

Valve Cover Installed

1977 BMW R100RS Rebuilding the Front End

I’ve posted a series of write-ups that cover rebuilding the front end of this bike.  You can find them here:

These write-ups cover disassembly of the handlebars, forks, steering stem, steering damper and fork lock, rebuilding and restoring the wheels, wheel bearings, fork damper rods, fork sliders, steering stem bearings, fork lock, steering damper and installation of a new Toaster Tan top brace and steering stem “acorn” nut.

I also used Speigler braided steel brake hoses, stainless steel caliper brake lines from Rocky Point Cycle.

 

Here is what I started with.

Torn Top Plate of Left Perch

Torn Top Plate of Left Perch

Fork Lock

Fork Lock

Front Wheel Left Side of Hub Showing Corrosion

Front Wheel Left Side of Hub Showing Corrosion

Master Cylinder Grunge and Rust

Master Cylinder Grunge and Rust

Original Caliper is Faded, Axle is Rusty, Fork Lowers Chipped

Original Caliper is Faded, Axle is Rusty, Fork Lowers Chipped

Friction Material Is Separating from Steel Backing Plate

Friction Material Is Separating from Steel Backing Plate

Exterior Fading of Caliper Anodizing

Exterior Fading of Caliper Anodizing

Telefix Fork Brace Needs Refinishing

Telefix Fork Brace Needs Refinishing

Stock Fork Brace-Fender Mount

Stock Fork Brace-Fender Mount

 

And here is what I ended up with.

Fork Lock Installed in Powder Coated Frame

Fork Lock Installed in Powder Coated Frame

Powder Coated Front Wheel with New Wheel Bearings Ready to Roll

Powder Coated Front Wheel with New Wheel Bearings Ready to Roll

Repaired & Painted Control Housings

Repaired & Painted Control Housings

Rebuilt and Refinished Master Cylinder Mounted on Spine Tube

Rebuilt and Refinished Master Cylinder Mounted on Spine Tube

Toaster Tan Top Plate & Steering Stem "Acorn" Nut Mounted

Toaster Tan Top Plate & Steering Stem “Acorn” Nut Mounted

Toaster Tan Top Plate

Toaster Tan Top Plate

Stock Fork-Fender Brace Mounted on Rebuilt Forks

Stock Fork-Fender Brace Mounted on Rebuilt Forks

Speigler Braided Steel & Rocky Point Cycle Stainless Aluminum Caliper Line

Speigler Braided Steel & Rocky Point Cycle Stainless Aluminum Caliper Line

1977 BMW R100RS Refinishing and Rebuilding Master Cylinder and Calipers

I refinished and rebuilt the master cylinder and calipers. You can read about how I did the work here:

This bike had the blue front calipers and the ATE front disk brakes with the drum rear leading and trailing shoe brakes. Originally, the wheels were wire spoke but a previous owner upgraded them to the later snowflake wheels.

As Purchased with Later Snowflake Wheels

As Purchased with Later Snowflake Wheels

Calipers Showing Anodized Blue Fading

Blue Anodizing on Calipers Has Faded

I rebuilt the two front calipers, the master cylinder and replaced the rear brake shoes. The blue anodized calipers had faded so I had them anodized, but this was a dismal failure. Either the shop who did the work botched it or it’s not so easy to anodize old parts. I found a paint that replicates blue anodizing. I stripped the botched anodizing and painted them. I like the result.

I replaced the lower steel brake line that goes between the caliper and the union that is inserted into the lower front fairing with stainless steel lines from Rocky Point Cycle. I replaced the rubber lines with braided steel lines with a translucent blue cover and chrome unions from Spiegler Performance Parts.

Here is the finished product. When the fairing comes back from the paint shop (soon, real soon now 🙂 ) I’ll connect the upper steel lines to the braided steel line through the bushing in the top center fairing panel.

Refinished and Rebuilt Calipers Installed in Fork Lowers

Refinished and Rebuilt Calipers Installed in Fork Lowers

Speigler Braided Steel & Rocky Point Cycle Stainless Steel Caliper Line

Speigler Braided Steel & Rocky Point Cycle Stainless Steel Caliper Line

Refinished & Rebuilt Master Cylinder Mounted on Spine Tube

Refinished & Rebuilt Master Cylinder Mounted on Spine Tube