1983 R100RS Remove Timing Chain, Crankshaft Timing Sprocket & Nose Bearing

I remove the inner timing cover to get access to the timing chain, the crankshaft timing sprocket and nose bearing, the timing chain tensioner and the chain rubbing block (aka, slide rail).

Inner Timing Cover Exposed After Electrical Components Removed

Inner Timing Cover Exposed After Electrical Components Removed

Inner Timing Cover Removed

Inner Timing Cover Removed

The chain, sprocket, nose bearing, chain tensioner and rubbing block wear and this affects timing. The wear can be great enough that you can hear the timing chain rattle.

What's Under The Inner Timing Cover

What’s Under The Inner Timing Cover

You can read about how I do this work here:

I made a short video summarizing the procedure that you will find here.

I will replace the crankshaft sprocket, nose bearing, chain tensioner, rubbing block and the internal components of the oil high pressure relief valve. I will post a separate write-up showing how I do that.

1983 R100RS Remove Diode Board, Alternator & Ignition Sensor

I am going to replace the timing chain, crankshaft sprocket, crankshaft nose bearing, and the front main seal. I’m also going to pull the crankshaft to inspect the main bearings.

But first, I have to remove the electrical components and wiring inside the front engine cover that includes the diode board, alternator and ignition sensor, aka, the “bean can”, aka, the “electronic points”. I plan to upgrade the alternator and diode board to a 400 watt system. I also plan on opening the bean can to lube the advance mechanism and replace the Hall effect sensors.

Here is the before and after pictures.

Diode Board, Alternator, Ignition Sensor Are Inside Front Engine Cover

Diode Board, Alternator, Ignition Sensor Are Inside Front Engine Cover

All Gone :-)

All Gone 🙂

You can read about how I did this work here:

And, I shot a video of this work which is a bit long at 20 mins.

VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Remove Diode Board, Alternator and Ignition Sensor

My goal in the video is to explain more about what the wiring under the front engine cover does and how it’s routed, as well as show how to remove all the components, so that added to the length. I’ll try to keep future videos shorter.

 

1983 BMW R100RS Install Rear Main Seal, Oil Pump Cover O-ring & Flywheel

I previously removed the clutch, flywheel and rear main seal so I can replace the crankshaft rear main seal, the flywheel o-ring and the oil pump cover o-ring. You can see how I did that work here:

The inside of the bell housing as well as the shelf under the transmission showed oil leaks, so one, or all, of these are the likely culprits.

Grunge Inside the Bell Housing Suggests O-rings and/or Rear Main Seal Leaks

Grunge Inside the Bell Housing Suggests O-rings and/or Rear Main Seal Leaks

Oil & Grudge On The Shelf Under The Transmission

Oil & Grudge On The Shelf Under The Transmission

When I opened up the oil pump to take measurements and do a visual inspection, I decided that I had to replace the oil pump due to a lot of wear and tear to the rotors inside the pump. You can see how I removed and measured the oil pump here:

Scratches On Lobe of Oil Pump Inner Rotor

Scratches On Lobe of Oil Pump Inner Rotor

Grooves on Face of Oil Pump Outer Rotor

Grooves on Face of Oil Pump Outer Rotor

When I first got the bike, in debugging a low oil pressure light that came on, I discovered that the oil filter high pressure bypass valve was hanging by a thread. So, unfiltered oil was circulating, but I didn’t know for how long. Based on the condition of the oil pump and the scores I found in the rod bearings, I think unfiltered oil circulated for while.  Not what I wanted, but I’m glad I took a look at the pump.

You can read about how I did the work here:

And, you can see a short video that summarizes the work here:

Due to what I found with the oil pump, I’m making a detour on the project. I’m going to pull the crankshaft to inspect the main bearings. I suspect I won’t like what I find there either, but it makes sense to take a look.

1983 BMW R100RS Remove Clutch, Flywheel and Oil Pump

I have been delinquent working on this project for a few months.  I got distracted with preparations for riding out to the 40th anniversary rally for the R65LS-R80G/S and then, I was lazy when I got back.

Below is my documentation of this work in write-ups and short videos.

NOTE:
I edited the Remove Clutch video and reposted it on YouTube. If you use the older version of this blog, the link will fail. I edited the link below so it points to the new video.

When parts arrive, I’ll get the back end of the engine buttoned up and, as is my affliction, I will write-up and film the corresponding documentation.

Here are a couple of pictures from the documentation.

Clutch Assembly Uses Six Bolts at 12:00, 4:00 and 8:00

Clutch Assembly Uses Six Bolts at 12:00, 4:00 and 8:00

Diaphragm Spring Fits In Hollow of the Flywheel Face

Diaphragm Spring Fits In Hollow of the Flywheel Face

Removing Flywheel Bolts with Impact Wrench

Removing Flywheel Bolts with Impact Wrench

Removing Seal with Cycle Works Jig

Removing Seal with Cycle Works Jig

Measure Oil Pump Outer Rotor End-Play

Measure Oil Pump Outer Rotor End-Play

1983 BMW R100RS Rebuild Master Cylinders & Brembo Calipers

This bike has a front master cylinder that is integrated into the Magura throttle assembly and a rear Brembo master cylinder. All three calipers are Brembo F-08 series with dual 38 mm pistons.  I disassembled both master cylinders and inspected them. I repainted and rebuilt the rear master cylinder using a Brembo rebuild kit. Unfortunately, I found the front Magura master cylinder bore and internals were badly rusted and pitted, so I had to replace the front master cylinder rather than rebuild it. Even though I didn’t have to rebuild the front master cylinder, I show how you rebuild it and the rear master cylinder in this document.

I also put together two short videos showing the work I did on the front and the rear master cylinders.

1983 R100RS Disassemble & Inspect Front Master Cylinder

1983 R100RS Disassemble, Inspect & Rebuild Rear Master Cylinder

I removed the brake calipers when I removed the brake system and you can see how to remove the calipers here:

I disassembled all three calipers, inspected them and found they were not corroded or pitted so I repainted and rebuilt them using a Brembo caliper rebuild kit. The same kit is used on all three calipers. You can see how I did that work here:

I also put together a video about how I rebuilt the calipers.

1983 R100RS Disassemble, Inspect & Rebuild Brembo Brake Calipers