BMW Fairing Plastic Repair with Plast-Aid

My R1150-RS had a minor tip over, but it broke the upper fairing and also cracked one of the tabs that the left, front turn signal screws into. 🙁

Cracked Upper Fairing

Cracked Upper Fairing

Broken Tab for Turn Signal Mounting Screw

Broken Tab for Turn Signal Mounting Screw

I used Plast-aid to attach the wiring bulk head connector in a Windjammer II fairing with great success. Vetter used ABS plastic in the Windjammer fairings. I believe BMW is using ABS or a similar plastic for the body work, so Plast-aid will work well with it. It worked so well on the R1150-RS repair that a few months later, I used it to repair a number of cracks in BMW touring cases (aka, Krauser panniers).

Repairing Broken Screw Tab

I use a washer to help reinforce the srcew tab. Plast-aid will mechanically bond to steel, particularly if it has been roughed up with 100 grit wet/dry paper.

Tab Piece, Washer for Reinforcement and Mounting Screw

Tab Piece, Washer for Reinforcement and Mounting Screw

I mix up a small amount of Plast-aid. It changes consistency as the chemical reaction progresses. I wait a minute or two until it is the consistency of pancake batter. While I wait, I put some of the liquid component on the edge of the tab and the remaining edge on the fairing to promote good adhesion. When the Plast-aid has stiffened a bit, I put some on the edge of the broken tab. I hold it against the remaining tab surface of the fairing until it stays put, about 2 more minutes. I use the rest of the Plast-aid, smear some on the washer and the apply it to the back side of the tab for reinforcement. I hold this in place for another couple of minutes and I’m done.

Reinforcing Washer Glued On

Reinforcing Washer Glued On

Repairing Cracked Fairing

The fairing crack repair needs reinforcement. I use a small piece of fiber glass mat and shape it to fit behind the crack. There is a small brace above the crack that reinforces the other screw hole for the turn signal and I anchor the fiber glass against it and down across the crack.

Fiberglass Cut to Size For Reinforcement

Fiberglass Cut to Size For Reinforcement

I mix up a larger amount of Plast-aid and apply some of the liquid component along the edge of the crack to improve adhesion . I put some on the edge of the crack, aline the edges so they are tight and put some masking tape over the crack to hold the pieces together.

Masking Tape to Hold Edges Together

Masking Tape to Hold Edges Together

I put the fiber glass into the Plast-aid when it is the consistency of Elmer’s Glue to soak some into the openings of the fiber glass. I put it on the back side of the fairing, and add some more Plast-aid using a Popsicle stick. I have to hold the patch in place for a minute or so using a finger and the Popsicle stick. When it becomes very firm and the fiber glass stays put, I’m all done.

Plast-aid Soaked Fiberglass On the Back Side of Crack

Plast-aid Soaked Fiberglass On the Back Side of Crack

Here is the final repair. It will need to be sanded, some bondo used to fill in the scratches and painted. But that’s a job for another day when I setup my temporary paint booth again.

Final Repair-Just Needs Painting

Final Repair-Just Needs Painting

1983 BMW R100RS Rebuild: Pannier Plastic & Latch Repair

In 1983, the R100RS came with BMW branded panniers, or saddle bags. Mine have a number of cracks and a broken lid hinge. While I’m waiting for some fork parts to come, I started to repair the panniers. My goal was to try and make the crack repairs invisible.  I think I got a B+ this time and learned a lot about how to create the textured surface in the plastic on the outside of the pannier.

I’ve tried a plastic repair product, Plast-aid, before to fix the bulkhead connector on a Windjammer fairing. I’m using it on the panniers. It can be colored using Acrylic paint so the Plast-aid color will match the black panniers.  I also fixed a broken latch assembly and learned about locks and keys and how to figure out what key you need for a lock. Here is the link to the write-up on what I did.

I discovered that two different keys are not enough for all the pannier locks. Some have been replaced so I have four different locks needing four different keys. I posted a note to the Micapeak  Airheads forum about this and learned that the latch locks are no longer available, but, Larry Stonestreet, owner of Stoner’s Beemer Stash [[email protected]; 951-813-1704]  has the keys I need. So all’s good. There is a nice page on Bob Fleischer’s site about the locks and keys BMW has used with part numbers of the various keys.

Here are some pictures from the write-up.

Double Latch Cracks

Double Latch Cracks

Mulitple Corner Cracks

Crushed Corner With Multiple Cracks

Double Latch Crack Final Repair

Double Latch Crack Final Repair

Crushed Corner Final Repair

Crushed Corner Final Repair

Plast-Aid and Black Acrylic Paint for Tinting

Plast-Aid and Black Acrylic Paint for Tinting

Round Dremel Bit for Widening Back of Crack

Round Dremel Bit for Widening Back of Crack

Dremel Engraving Tool #106-A Bit Too Big

Dremel Engraving Tool #106 to Etch Texture Into Plastic-A Bit Too Big, #105 Is Better

JB Weld Applied to Lock Mechanism Hinge Plate

JB Weld Applied to Lock Mechanism Hinge Plate

Pannier #1 Latch Locks Use Key #069

Pannier #1 Latch Locks Use Key #069

Panniers Mounted

Panniers Mounted

Panniers Mounted

Panniers Mounted

Panniers Mounted

Panniers Mounted