With the engine, transmission, swing arm and rear drive installed, I’m ready to install the rear sub-frame and the shocks.
The sub-frame legs mount to the brackets that hold the exhaust mounts and inside the tabs at the top of the frame. So it is very easy to scratch the new powder coating on the frame. I found that the legs were too tight and I pulled them apart with my hands to expand them enough so they would pass over the exhaust bracket and not scratch anything.
I renewed the hex bolt that secures the grab handle to the frame and sub-frame with a new stainless steel bolt from Hucky’s.
|46 51 1 231 093 SS
|Hex bolt, M8x25, Stainless Steel, Handhold
Here is the shock mounting hardware.
There is a fine thread, short bolt that goes into the top of the right side shock. The two longer bolts go on the left side shock. The nut, large flat washer and wave washer go on the lower right stud in the rear drive.
Here is the sub-frame mounting hardware.
The grab rail front mount bolt goes through the top, left sub-frame hole. The rear grab rail is tapped on the other side for an Allen bolt. The other three bolts mount the lower left and right sides of the sub-frame to the frame.
The stock Boge shocks have spring pre-load adjustment via a lever and notched ring. Each ring is stamped to indicate which side they go on.
I put jack stands under the swing arm on the left side and the exhaust bracket on the right side with some padding to protect the powder coat.
I install the shocks in the lower mounts and finger tighten the nuts. This makes it easy to swing the shocks up into the upper mounts of the sub-frame. I used some padding under the left shock so it wouldn’t mare the power coating on the swing arm. The right side lower mount is a stud on the rear drive.
Here you see the large flat washer and wave washer with nut on the rear drive stud.
Installing the Rear Sub-Frame
It’s easier to install the right side of the frame first. I eased it into the top tab and ran a bolt through and the the bottom tab. I finger tighten the nuts so I can adjust the sub-frame to get the left side mounted.
For comparison, here is how this looked when I disassembled the bike-major improvement 🙂
The left side uses the grab rail with a bolt to hold the top of the sub-frame.
The Allen bolt goes in from the inside of the frame into the tapped hole in the grab rail.
I adjusted the jack stands and the motorcycle lift so the top shackle on the left shock is a little lower than the hole of the mounting bracket when I swing the shock up into the bracket.
Then I can lift the swing arm with one hand while inserting the bolt with the other to secure the top of the left shock in the frame. This supports the swing arm. I swing the right side shock up into the housing and insert the shorter, fine thread bolt to secure it.
The spring pre-load handles should be on the inside of the swing arm as you turn them. If they aren’t, you can put the top shackle in a vice (use rubber jaws to avoid chewing them up) and push down on the adjusting handle and rotate the handle as needed. The handle is slotted and can be repositioned on the bottom of the stepped adjusting ring. (Yeah, I had to do that) 🙂
Torque Shock and Sub-Frame Bolts
The Haynes manual shows a lower torque setting for the lower left bolt, 24 FOOT/pounds, than for the other three shock mounting bolts, 27 FOOT/pounds. The sub-frame mounting bolts are set at 18 FOOT/pounds.
Install the Seat Lock
Here is the hardware for the seat latch and the key lock when I removed them during dissasembly.
And here are the cleaned parts ready for installation.
The key lock has a retaining ring on the rear that fastens to the frame with a small machine screw.
Remove the retaining ring from the key lock barrel and insert the barrel through the frame. Rotate it so the key slot in the front of the lock is pointing down. From the back, the hole for the small screw that holds the retaining ring will be at the 11:00 o’clock position. The hole is inside the V-slot that orients the chrome retaining ring.
I slip the chrome retaining ring over the locking arm on the key lock barrel and then I rotate it 90 degrees to get it onto the lock barrel. It fits into a V-slot in the back of the lock.
I secure the retaining ring to the key lock barrel using the small machine screw.
Install the Seat Latch
The seat latch mechanism includes a spring that pushes the latch open. The button on the front pushes the latch open and the spring pushes the latch closed. Note one end of the spring goes on the latch lever and the other end extends past the latch housing. It gets compressed when the latch cover is installed.
The latch is moved by the seat latch push button. It installs through a hole in frame and in a boss in the seat latch housing so it can push against the seat latch arm. A return spring pushes the latch and button back to their original position.
The latch arm is secured by a pin that goes through a hole in the arm. The pin has a groove on one end for a c-clip. The pin goes through the seat latch housing and the return spring and is secured on the outside by the c-clip.
The latch housing installs around the seat lock assembly with the latch bar pointing to the front.
Since the front of the latch cover has to compress one end of the spring, it is easier to insert the rear screw first. It aligns with a tapped hole in the frame and due to its length, it is best to look at the front of the frame as you wiggle the screw until it lines up with the hole and then finger tighten it. I screwed it in about half way and then pushed on the front of the cover until I got the seat latch spring compressed, inserted the screw and lined it up with the tapped hole in the frame. I finger tightened the front screw while holding the cover tight against the latch housing against the spring pressure and then tightened the front screw and then the back screw.
Here is the rear end of the bike when I disassembled it.
And how it looks now. Major improvement 🙂
2017-08-07 Add text and pictures of seat latch arm and push button.