- Install Handlebar
- Mount Ignition Switch In Headlight Bracket
- Install Instruments: Speedometer & Tachometer
- Install Ignition Switch Plate
- Install Handlebar Controls
- Mount Mirrors and Left Handlebar Grip
- Install Multi-Function Switches
- Testing Handlebar Multi-Function Switches & Dash Lights
After I installed the electrical system, I install the handlebars, the instruments (speedometer and tachometer), the dash and the handlebar controls and multi-function switches.
All the parts were generously supplied by Euro MotoElectrics for free in support of my goal to auction this bike and provide all proceeds to the Motorcycle Relief Project.
|32 72 1 237 811||RUBBER GRIP, LEFT, Clutch Side||1|
|32 71 2 307 401||HANDLEBAR, RAISED, CHROME||1|
|32 71 1 242 932||CAP, Instrument Dash||1|
|32 72 1 454 129||THROTTLE GRIP (from 09/80), Throttle Side w/ Tube||1|
|32 72 1 241 862||HANDLE UNIT LEFT||1|
|32 72 2 302 367||HANDLE UNIT, RIGHT – D=12MM (from 09/81)||1|
|61 31 1 244 420||COMBINATION SWITCH LEFT||1|
|61 31 1 244 417||COMBINATION SWITCH RIGHT||1|
|61 32 1 243 656||PLATE, Ignition Switch||1|
|31 42 1 242 397||RING, Ignition Switch||1|
The handlebar I got from Euro MotoElectrics has about one-half the rise (4 inches) of the stock handlebars (8 inches), so they are a bit flatter.
I have the original ignition switch which is working just fine. The combination switches (aka multi-function switches) were part of the complete electrical system replacement I document here.
VIDEO: 1983 BMW R80ST Install Handlebar, Instruments & Dash
The dash covers the handlebar risers, so I mount the handlebar first. I put the upper and lower risers on the handlebar and then insert the studs of the risers into the holes on the top brace. The handlebar will sit in the risers without falling out. Then I install the nuts and wave washers on the bottom of the top plate to secure the handlebars in the risers. I leave the nuts a bit loose so I can rotate the handlebars while I install the instruments, dash and handlebar controls.
I installed a Toaster Tan top brace instead of the stock BMW top plate. Unlike the two R100RS bikes I installed a Toaster Tan top brace on, the R80ST does not have an instrument bracket, so the handlebar risers do not need to be modified with long studs. The stock handlebar risers mount to the Toaster Tan top brace just the same as they mount to the BMW top plate.
Mount Ignition Switch In Headlight Bracket
The R80ST ignition switch mounts to the dash using a thick spacer and a nut. An indicator plate fits over the ignition switch on the top of the dash and is secured with a black ring nut.
I mount the ignition before mounting the instruments. You can’t fit the switch into the hole in the headlight bracket if the instruments are mounted. The hole has a ridge that fits into one of the two grooves in the side of the ignition switch so it is positioned correctly.
The switch is in the wrong orientation in the above photo. Read the following paragraph.
Since there are two grooves, the ignition switch can be mounted in two positions 180 degrees apart. But, the markings on the plate that fits over the top of the switch is designed so the pointer on the fold over key points at the correct indication on the plate: OFF, PARK, ON. To get the ignition switch in the correct orientation, the teeth of the key should point down when the ignition switch is mounted correctly. Since I don’t have the fold over key for the R80ST, I used the one on my 1983 R100RS to ensure I mounted the ignition switch in the correct orientation. I had the switch in the OFF position, so that means the pointer should be at about 10:00 when the ignition switch is mounted in the bracket.
The wires to the back of the switch extend through a second hole in the bracket. I install the wires before mounting the switch. I document how to get the wires on the correct ignition switch terminals here:
I have to tip the headlight down in order to get enough room to install the ignition switch into the hole in the top of the headlight bracket.
Install Instruments: Speedometer & Tachometer
The speedometer and tachometer have a bracket welded on the side that has two M5 studs that fit into holes in the top of the headlight bracket. Each instrument is secured with two nuts and wave washers.
I install the turn indicator wires to the bulb sockets on the back of the dash. The BLUE-Black wire goes on the right and the BLUE–Red wire goes on the left, as you are sitting on the bike. The BROWN ground wires go on the terminals at the side of the bulb sockets and the BLUE wires go on the terminals that go to the center of the bulb sockets.
The dash bottom cover is secured with two Tinnerman clips on the sides of the dash and screws.
Install Ignition Switch Plate
The ignition switch plate has two tabs that fit into the two slots on the side of the ignition switch. It is secured with the black ring with two holes in it. I use two nails and a screwdriver to tighten the black ring.
I verify the switch is mounted in the correct orientation using the 1983 R100RS fold over key.
Note that the flat key will point to ON when the ignition is off since it does not have the pointer.
Install Handlebar Controls
I bought new handlebar controls so I don’t have to install the levers or the front disk brake master cylinder and fluid reservoir.
The left handlebar control includes the clutch and choke while the right handlebar control includes the throttle and front disk brake master cylinder and brake fluid reservoir. I’ll install the clutch and throttle cables when I install the transmission and carburetors. I’ll install the disk brake line when I install the front disk brake system. For now, I’m only going to install the handlebar multi-function control switches, the clutch and the front brake light switches.
Install Right Handlebar Control
The right handlebar control includes the throttle tube. It has teeth cut into it that mate with the teeth of the throttle cam the fits inside the housing on top of the control. I’ll install the original throttle cam cam and throttle cable later when I install the carburetors. The throttle tube has a groove that the foot on the bottom of the throttle housing cover fits into to secure the throttle tube in the handlebar control. I mount the throttle tube and secure the throttle housing cover with the bolt.
The front brake light switch screws into a hole in the handlebar control. It comes with a washer, but on this handlebar control, I don’t need the washer.
I initially installed the washer, but the rear brake light would not go out because the plunger on the front switch was too far from the handlebar lever to compress it. When I removed the washer, the front brake light switch worked correctly.
I slide the handlebar control onto the left arm of the handlebar. Then I screw in the front brake light switch and attach the two wires on the front brake switch sub-harness, GREEN–Red and GREEN-Black, onto the spade terminals of the switch. Then I slide the rubber boot over the terminals and onto the end of the switch to keep water out of the switch.
The front brake switch sub-harness routes down the handlebar and in front of the steering stem, then down the side of the steering stem, and back along the spine tube and over to the plug on the left side of the main wiring harness that has the GREEN–Red and GREEN-Black wires.
Install Left Handlebar Control
The left handlebar control has a slot with two holes for the clutch switch. My clutch switch was a bit wide, so I sanded the sides so it would fit all the way down into the slot. The switch is secured with an M3 bolt and washer into the bottom hole which is tapped. I install the clutch switch before I install the handlebar control on the handlebar as it’s easier to get the screw mounted in the hole on the work bench.
I install the handlebar control onto the left arm of the handlebar. I route the clutch switch sub-harness similarly to the way I routed the right side front brake switch sub-harness. I connect the sub-harness to the plug on the right side of the main wiring harness with the BROWN–Yellow and BROWN wires.
Mount Mirrors and Left Handlebar Grip
The mirrors mount in holes in the handlebar controls with a lock nut and washer on the bottom. I install the left handlebar grip using some liquid tire mounting lubricant that I spay inside the tube so it is easy to slide onto the handlebar. The tire mounting lubricant will dry and the grip will stay tight on the handlebar. You can use water with a bit of dish detergent to lubricate the inside of the handlebar grip.
Install Multi-Function Switches
The left and right multi-function switches attach to the handlebar controls with an Allen bolt at the bottom of the switches.
Testing Handlebar Multi-Function Switches & Dash Lights
As I did when I installed the electrical system, I tested the multi-function switches and dash lights to be sure everything is still working. Here is how I did the test.
Everything worked. 🙂 Here is what all done looks like.
2023-01-02 Updated ignition switch install to show correct hardware BMW used.
2023-01-03 Update video to show correct ignition switch hardware install.