With the air box and swing arm removed, I can remove the transmission. It is secured to the engine block with three bolts and a nut. To get it out of the frame, I remove the clutch throw-out rod mechanism from the back of the transmission and the foot shift mechanism.
Remove Clutch Throw-out Arm
On the 1983 transmission, the throw-out arm is secured with a bolt, nut and washer. The throw out arm is attached to the clutch lever and when it’s pulled, it pushes the clutch rod against the pressure plate hard enough to disengage it from the clutch friction disk disconnecting the transmission from the engine.
There is a clutch adjuster nut on the throw-out arm. This adjusts clutch engagement.
I remove the rubber bellows that is secured with a steel strap. I use a screw driver to get the bellows off the housing. Inside the bellows is a return spring for the throw-out arm.
Remove Foot Shift Adjustment Linkage
The foot shift lever is attached to the left foot peg assembly. The foot shift lever has an arm at the 12:00 position that is connected to an adjustable linkage that connects to another lever arm mounted on the shift shaft as shown in the picture below.
The adjustment linkage has a wire clip that secures the cup end of the linkage on the ball of the foot shift lever.
To remove the linkage from the ball on the foot shift lever arm, I use a screw driver blade to push the end of the wire clip out of the groove in the cup end of the adjustment linkage and rotate the wire 180-degrees. Then I can pull the wire out toward the rear.
Sometimes I can pull the adjustable linkage cup off the ball with my fingers, but it’s a tight fit. I use a screw driver blade on the edge of the cup to push it off the ball.
I repeat the procedure on the other end of the adjustable linkage that attaches to the transmission shift shaft arm.
Remove Left Foot Peg and Foot Shift Lever
The shift lever is attached to the left foot peg. The foot peg has to be removed to remove the shift lever.
The washer is not the correct kind. I will replace it.
The shift lever attaches to the foot peg with a countersunk Allan bolt from the back side of the foot peg. I remove it.
There is a washer between the foot peg and the foot shift lever.
The foot shift lever wobbled on the foot peg. There is an aluminum shim that was added to try and fix this. The bushing is wallowed out. I will replace it.
Remove Transmission and Clutch Throw-out Rod
The top of the transmission is mounted using the left side bolt and right side nut that secure the air box. The left bottom bolt is a blind Allan bolt and the right bottom Allan bolt has a nut to secure it. I remove them.
There is minimal clearance on the bottom left bolt for an Allan wrench. I break the bolt free and then back it out with my fingers.
After the bolts are removed the transmission will hang on the input shaft.
I use a magnet to pull out the clutch throw-out bushing and ball bearing from the throw-out rod hole in the back of the transmission.
I pull the transmission off the clutch spline to expose the clutch push rod. I push it to the rear to remove it.
Here is the clutch throw-out rod assembly.
The rear end of the clutch throw out rod has a bushing that connects to the other side of the ball bearing. It has become welded to the throw out rod. I will replace the clutch throw out rod and bushing.
And, there is a garter (retaining spring) from the transmission clutch push rod seal on the clutch push rod.
Someone was not careful when they pushed the rod in from the front of the transmission and caught the garter and pulled it out. If that seal is damaged or the garter removed, the transmission gear lube can migrate down the clutch push rod into the engine bell housing and coat the clutch plates and/or allow gear lube to leak down the back of the transmission.
The end of the rod is in good shape. But I’m going to replace it due to the bushing getting welded to the other end of the rod.
The bushing shows were the throw-out arm contacts it as shown by the partial circle to the upper right on the nipple.
Here is the clutch assembly.
The amount of oil in the bottom of the clutch bell housing and on the top of the engine indicate the rear main seal/ flywheel o-ring and/or oil pump cover o-ring are leaking. No worries, as I planned to replace all of them.
Here is the transmission after it’s removed. You can see a lot of grunge around the outside of the input shaft seal in the middle of the transmission. Indication of gear lube leaking past that seal.
The bushing cast into the transmission where the clutch cable fits is not damaged.
Here is what the bike looks like now the transmission has been removed.
2019-11-26 Edits & typos.
2020-06-21 Fix output/input shaft confusion typo,
Wonderfully detailed article, even to the extent of allowing me to see which bolts and washers go where in the mounting scheme (I had gotten completely out of sync in several removals over the years.
One typo about half way down. After removing all the trans mounting bolts, you say the transmission hangs on the output shaft; should be input shaft.
I’m glad this article was helpful. And, thank you for finding my confusion/mistake. I corrected it.
Brook, I am curious why the clutch pushrod should be installed from the front of the transmission. Is there a reason not to install it from the rear of the transmission after the transmission is bolted up? Seems it would work either way on my 88 R100RS. Appreciate all the help your site provides.
You can’t install it from the rear as there is not enough clearance to insert it.
Book your site is fantastic…
one question about the Clutch Push Rod Seal in Rear Transmission Cover, i’m in the same condition of your immage (the garter is out of the Seal). Is this correct or not?
If this is a condition that nead to recovery the seal is it possible without open the gearbox?
I believe you can replace the push rod seal without opening the gearbox. You have to remove the transmission to access the push rod and seal.