I completed installing all the parts behind the inner timing cover; the crankshaft timing sprocket and nose bearing, the timing chain and the chain tensioner and rubbing block. Then I installed the inner timing cover. Before installing the inner timing cover, I replaced the front main seal.
New Parts-(Top) Timing Chain Sprocket, Nose Bearing; (Bottom) Single Row Timing Chain
Timing Chain Tensioner and Rubbing Block Parts
New Front Main Seal
Inner Timing Cover Gasket and (2) Doughnut Gaskets (Green Inside Red Circle)
Sprocket, Nose Bearing and Timing Chain Installed
Newly Painted Inner Timing Cover Installed
This year engine uses the single row timing chain and comes with a master link which is very convenient. The older dual-row chains were continuous and I had to cut the chain to remove it which was a bit of a hassle.
I shot three short videos that summarize the procedure I documented in the write-up.
VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Install Crankshaft Sprocket and Nose Bearing
VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Install Timing Chain
VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Install Inner Timing Cover
If you have the older engine with dual-row timing chain, here are links to how I did the same work with the dual row chain. The procedure is pretty much the same. That said, the better method for removing the continuous dual-row chain is to use bolt cutters, not grind off two pins on a link, as that creates a lot of shrapnel that you have to clean up.
I remove the crankshaft to check the condition of the main bearings. In order to remove it, I have to remove the camshaft first. I use the tools I bought from Cycle Works to remove the crankshaft.
Cycle Works Stage III Tools
I asked Matt Parkhouse, a long time airhead mechanic who lives about two hours from me, to assess the condition of the crankshaft main journals and the main bearings. He found the front bearing was serviceable but the rear main bearing was just outside the maximum clearance. He replaced the bearing and now the front and rear main bearing clearances are close.
Measuring ID of Original Rear Main Bearing
Since I have to heat the front of the engine block to 275 F, I removed the stater motor and crankcase vent housing hose so they would not be damaged.
Here is the block with the crankshaft and camshaft removed.
I made a short video summarizing the procedure that you will find here.
I will replace the crankshaft sprocket, nose bearing, chain tensioner, rubbing block and the internal components of the oil high pressure relief valve. I will post a separate write-up showing how I do that.