46 BMW 1983 R100RS Remove Fairing, Dash, Volt Meter, Clock, Ignition Switch

The fairing consists of seven panels, a windscreen, dash, headlight tunnel, front turn signals and parking light and four mounting brackets, an upper, a middle and two lower brackets.

Fairing Components and Attachment

Here is a short video with an overview of how the fairing panels and brackets are connected together.

The fairing consists of (7) panels and the dash and mirror brackets.

  • (2) Upper Side Panels
  • (2) Lower Side Panels
  • (1) Top Center Panel
  • (1) Middle Center Panel
  • (1) Lower Center Panel

Fairing Fasteners

BMW uses a variety of fasteners on the fairing as shown in the pictures below.

Fairing Mounting Hardware

Fairing Mounting Hardware

Fairing Mounting Hardware

Fairing Mounting Hardware

Here are the specifications for the fasteners with the quantity in ( ).

  • #1- M6x25 Hex Bolt, (2) Flat Washer and Wave Washer (2)
  • #2- 4.2×13 Fillister Head Self-tapping Screw, Flat Washer, Tinnerman Clip-4.2 (8)
  • #3- 4.2×16 Sheet Metal Screw, Recessed Oval Head, Dished Washer, Tinnerman Clip-4.2 (9)
  • #4- M6x10 Hex Bolt, Flat and Wave Washer (4) [split lower side panel] (4)
  • #5- 4.2×19 Sheet Metal Screw, Recessed Oval Head, Dished Washer, Tinnerman Clip-4.2 (9)
  • #6-
  • #7- Wood Screw with Flat Washer (10)
  • #8- M6x14 Hex Bolt, Wave Washer (2)

Here is the location of fasteners in the upper side panels that attach to every other panel and to the top and middle fairing brackets.

Location Of Fairing Mounting Hardware on Upper Side Panel

Location Of Fairing Mounting Hardware on Upper Side Panel

Here is the location of fasteners in the middle and lower center panels that attach to the upper side panels and the lower side panels.

Location of Fairing Mounting Hardware on Middle and Bottom Center Panels

Location of Fairing Mounting Hardware on Middle and Bottom Center Panels

This is the fastener that goes into the bottom fairing bracket securing the bottom of the lower side panel.

Location of Fairing Mounting Hardware on Lower Fairing Bracket

Location of Fairing Mounting Hardware on Lower Fairing Bracket

Remove Windscreen

This windscreen is secured with nylon bolts, nuts and washers that go through holes in the dash.

Windscreen Bolt Hardware-After Market, Not Stock

Windscreen Bolt Hardware-After Market, Not Stock

But, the stock screen used plastic expanding rivets that are not reusable. The bolts are much more convenient.

Stock Windscreen Plastic Rivet

Stock Windscreen Plastic Rivet

Stock Windscreen Rivet Legs Inside Fairing

Stock Windscreen Rivet Legs Inside Fairing

Pulling Windscreen Rivet Out After Driving Center Pin Out

Pulling Windscreen Rivet Out After Driving Center Pin Out

I can get access to the nuts for the front windshield bolts from the hole for the parking light housing. I can get my fingers, or a 10 mm wrench, onto the nylon nuts to hold them while I unscrew the windshield bolts.

Accessing Front Windscreen Screws From Parking Light Cutout

Accessing Front Windscreen Screws From Parking Light Cutout

Windscreen Removed

Windscreen Removed

Windscreen with Stock Edge Molding

Windscreen with Stock Edge Molding

I remove the rubber gasket that fits under the dash to seal the bottom of the windscreen.

Dash Showing Copper Rivets & Windscreen Gasket

Dash Showing Copper Rivets & Windscreen Gasket

Windscreen Rubber Gasket Fits Under Edge of the Dash

Windscreen Rubber Gasket Fits Under Edge of the Dash

Remove Front Turn Signals and Mirrors

I remove the wires from the turn signal housing inside the fairing.

Turn Signal Waterproof Rubber Boot with Wiring Inside Fairing

Turn Signal Waterproof Rubber Boot with Wiring Inside Fairing

Then I remove the two screws holding the turn signal lens and remove the front turn signal assembly with the bulb inside from the hole in the upper side panel.

Mirror Bracket Bolts to Gusset in Upper Fairing Bracket

Mirror Bracket Bolts to Gusset in Upper Fairing Bracket

Mirror Bracket Studs

Mirror Bracket Studs

Remove Parking Light & Headlight Tunnel

The parking light housing is secured by the two screws that attach the clear parking light lens. I pull the parking light housing out of the top center panel and push the rubber water proof cover off the parking light housing. I pull the BROWN and BLACKWhite wires off the terminals inside the housing.

Removing Parking Light Assembly Phillips Screws

Removing Parking Light Assembly Phillips Screws

Pulling Parking Light Assembly Out of Upper Center Panel

Pulling Parking Light Assembly Out of Upper Center Panel

Pulling Parking Light Assembly Out of Upper Center Panel

Pulling Parking Light Assembly Out of Upper Center Panel

Parking Light Assembly Wiring

Parking Light Assembly Wiring

The headlight tunnel is secured with four Phillips head screws at the four corners of the cover. The screws are hidden underneath the black rubber gasket. I pull up the gasket at the corners to get the screwdriver onto the screws. When these screws are loosened (they don’t have to be removed from the black housing, I can pull the headlight tunnel out of the top center panel.

Headlight Cover Screws (4) Under Black Gasket At Each Corner

Headlight Cover Screws (4) Under Black Gasket At Each Corner

Removing Phillips Head Screw at Corner of Headlight Cover

Removing Phillips Head Screw at Corner of Headlight Cover

Clip For Securing Headlight Cover

Clip For Securing Headlight Cover

Headlight Cover Removed From Headlight Tunnel Panel

Headlight Cover Removed From Headlight Tunnel Panel

Remove Dash

I have to remove the 14 copper rivets that secure the dash to the body panels.

Copper Rivet Securing Dash to Upper Panels

Dash Copper Rivet

Dash Copper Rivet

If they are fastened tightly enough, I can use a drill bit to remove most of the top flange of the rivet. I use diagonal pliers to catch the edge of the top flange of the rivet and bend it up and then deform it toward the center of the rivet. Then I can drive the rivet out with a punch and hammer. If the rivets are loose so I can’t drill the top flange, I use the pliers on the top flange and deform it toward the center of the rivet.

Diagonal Pliers To Deform Rim of Copper Rivet

Diagonal Pliers To Deform Rim of Copper Rivet

Dash Rivet Deformed For Removal

Dash Rivet Deformed For Removal

Using Punch with Hammer To Push Out Dash Rivets

Using Punch with Hammer To Push Out Dash Rivets

Dash Copper Rivets Removed

Dash Copper Rivets Removed

Here is short video of how I deform the top of the rivet so I can drive it it out with a punch and hammer.

Remove Volt Meter, Clock & Ignition Switch From Dash

With the copper rivets removed, I can remove the dash off the top of the upper fairing panels. I have to disconnect the dash wiring sub-harness first so I clip the zip ties securing it to the upper fairing bracket.

Dash Sub-Harness Tie Wrap Detail

Dash Sub-Harness Tie Wrap Detail

Dash Harness Tie Wrap Detail

Dash Harness Tie Wrap Detail

Then I disconnect the sub-harness connector. It has six male spades.

Dash Sub-Harness Plug

Dash Sub-Harness Plug

Dash Sub-Harness Male Plug Detail

Dash Sub-Harness Male Plug Detail

The main wiring harness has six female slots.

Main Wire Harness Female Plug Detail

Main Wire Harness Female Plug Detail

Now I can flip the dash upside down to get to the instrument and ignition switch wires and the clock and volt meter mounting brackets.

The volt meter has a GREEN-Black wire that provides power to the meter, a BROWN ground wire and a BLACKWhite wire for the light bulb.

Volt Meter Wires

Volt Meter Wires

NOTE:
The BLACKWhite wire was modified with a spade connector. This is not stock.

After I remove the wires, I can remove the knurled nuts holding the bracket against the underside of the dash and then pull the volt meter out of the front of the dash.

Removing Volt Meter Bracket by Removing Two Knurled Nuts

Removing Volt Meter Bracket by Removing Two Knurled Nuts

The ignition switch has a RED, GREEN, GREENWhite and GREY wire.

Ignition Switch Wires

Ignition Switch Wires

Ignition Switch Wires

Ignition Switch Wires

The switch has five terminals, but two of them, terminal (30) with the RED wire, are tied together. You can see which terminals were used as three of them are shiny and the grey wire is still attached in this picture.

Ignition Switch Spades-Only 4 Are Used

Ignition Switch Spades-Only 4 Are Used

The clock has RED wire that powers the clock even when the ignition is off, a BROWN ground wire and a BLACKWhite wire for the light bulb.

Clock Wires

Clock Wires

As with the volt meter, removing the two knurled nuts releases the mounting bracket and the clock is pulled out from the front of the dash.

Removing Clock Bracket by Removing Two Knurled Nuts

Removing Clock Bracket by Removing Two Knurled Nuts

Volt Meter & Clock With Mounting Hardware

Volt Meter & Clock With Mounting Hardware

Here is a video of the instruments in the dash showing the wiring.

The ignition switch is removed from the front of the dash. The bezel on the front has two holes. I use needle nose pliers to unscrew it and then remove the switch.

Ignition Switch & Switch Position Tab (White Markings Rubbed Off)

Ignition Switch & Switch Position Tab (White Markings Rubbed Off)

Using Needle Nose Pliers to Remove Ignition Retaining Ring

Using Needle Nose Pliers to Remove Ignition Retaining Ring

Ignition Switch Removed From Dash

Ignition Switch Removed From Dash

Remove Upper Side Panels

As shown in the previous video about how the fairing goes together, the top panel is secured to the center top panel with several wood screws and two 10 mm bolts, one on the bottom leg of the upper fairing bracket and the other at the top of the upper fairing side panel.

Lower Leg of Upper Fairing Bracket Bolt

Lower Leg of Upper Fairing Bracket Has 1o mm Bolt Securing Upper Side to Top Center Panel

Upper Side Panel, Upper Bolt 10 mm Bolt

10 mm Bolt Secures Upper Side to Top Center Panel

Upper Side to Upper Center Panel Bolt Detail

Upper Side to Top Center Panel Bolt Detail

The upper side panel attaches to the top center panel using wood screws.

Removing Upper Side Panel to Top Center Panel Wood Screws

Removing Upper Side Panel to Top Center Panel Wood Screws

Upper Panel to Top Center Panel Wood Screw Detail

Upper Panel to Top Center Panel Wood Screw Detail

Tinnerman clips with screws secure the upper side panel to the middle center panel and the lower side panel.

Upper Panel to Middle Center Panel Tinnerman Clips

Upper Panel to Middle Center Panel Tinnerman Clips

Upper Side Panel Tinnerman Clips For Securing Middle and Lower Center Panel

Upper Side Panel Tinnerman Clips For Securing Middle and Lower Center Panel

Upper Panel to Lower Panel and Middle Center Panel Tinnerman Clips

Upper Panel to Lower Panel and Middle Center Panel Tinnerman Clips

There is a 10 mm bolt through the middle fairing bracket that attaches the upper side to lower side panels.

Removing Middle Fairing Bracket Bolt

Removing Middle Fairing Bracket Bolt

Middle Fairing Bracket Bolt Upper Detail

Middle Fairing Bracket Bolt Upper Detail

Middle Fairing Bracket Nut Side Hardware

Middle Fairing Bracket Nut Side Hardware

Upper Side to Lower Side Panel Middle Bracket Bolt Detail

Upper Side to Lower Side Panel Middle Bracket Bolt Detail

Upper Side Panel Mounting Detail

Upper Side Panel Mounting Detail

Upper Side Panel Removed

Upper Side Panel Removed

Here is view after the upper side panel is removed.

Upper Side Panel Removed Showing Center Panela Detail

Upper Side Panel Removed Showing Center Panel Detail

Remove Lower Side Panels

The lower side panel has tinnerman clips and screws that connect it to the bottom center panel.

Tinnerman Screw In Bottom of Middle Center Panel

Tinnerman Screw In Bottom of Middle Center Panel

Bottom Center Panel Screw & Dished Washer

Bottom Center Panel Screw & Dished Washer

It also has two bolts (only one on the earlier, solid lower side panel) that secures the bottom of the split lower side panel to the lower fairing bracket.

Lower Fairing Bracket Detail

Lower Fairing Bracket Detail

The lower fairing bracket is bolted to the frame with the front engine mount stud. The split in the lower side panel allows the panel to be bent so you can slide it past the exhaust pipe. The earlier solid lower side panel required the exhaust to be removed to remove the lower side panel.

Lower Side Panel Removed (Later Version Has This Split at The Bottom)

Lower Side Panel Removed (Later Version Has This Split at The Bottom)

Here is a short video of how to get the lower side panel past the exhaust header.

Remove Middle and Bottom Center Panels.

These two panels are secured with Tinnerman clips and screws similar to the those used to connect them to the upper and lower side panels.

The middle center panel also has rubber bushings that the brake line couplings go through. I pull the bushings out of the hole in the middle center panel and then slide the steel brake line out of the panel through the slot in the hole.

Middle Center Panel

Middle Center Panel

Middle Center Panel Showing Holes for Brake Lines and Rubber Grommets

Middle Center Panel Showing Holes for Brake Lines and Rubber Grommets

The bottom center panel has one screw and Tinnerman clip in the middle that connects it to the middle center panel.

Bottom Center Panel Uses Screws with Tinnerman Clips To Attach to Lower Side Panels & Middle Center Panel

Bottom Center Panel Uses Screws with Tinnerman Clips To Attach to Lower Side Panels & Middle Center Panel

Here’s what the project looks like at this point.

Tank, Seat, Front Fender, Fairing & Brackets Removed

Tank, Seat, Fairing & Brackets Removed

2 thoughts on “46 BMW 1983 R100RS Remove Fairing, Dash, Volt Meter, Clock, Ignition Switch

  1. Brook, I enjoyed and implemented your technique of re-establishing the white lettering on the black plastic cover of the Bing carbs. I have been reviewing your site to find a method to painting the letters on some switches on my “dashbboard” and handcontrols on my 78 R100RS but have not located any. I have tried a very brush but my hands are not that steady anymore, so the results were not satisfactory. Do you have any tips or tricks that would provide me a better result?

    Best regards,

    Saunders

    • Hi Saunders,

      I’m pleased the technique I used, although a bit crude, worked for you as well.

      I would like to restore the paint on the dash lettering on my current project, rebuilding a 1983 R100RS into an RT model. I’m staring at it and trying to come up with a plan. I’ll post a solution when I figure one out.

      Best.
      Brook.

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