The clutch in this 1983 R80ST is the same as the one used in the 1983 R100RS that I rebuilt and converted to an RT model. You can see the procedure I used to remove the 1983 R100RS clutch here.
As I plan to remove the flywheel so I can replace the rear main seal on the crankshaft and the O-ring that seals the oil pump cover, I block the crankshaft from moving before I start work. I show how I do that in the R100RS clutch removal document.
I put the engine at top dead center and then block the flywheel from moving as shown in the pictures below. Refer to the link above for all the details.
If you are only replacing the clutch, you do NOT have to block the crankshaft to keep it from moving. Only if you remove the flywheel MUST you block the crankshaft.
You don’t need special tools to remove the clutch. That said, I like to use an electric impact driver to quickly remove the six clutch bolts with their star washers.
You can remove the clutch bolts with a ratchet wrench and Allen bolt driver as I describe in the R100RS clutch removal document.
I created a short video showing how the removal of the R80ST clutch.
VIDEO: 1983 BMW R80ST Clutch Removal
I also created a video that summarizes how I removed the R100RS clutch.
Clutch Condition And Markings
I took pictures of the 1983 R80ST clutch showing the makings on it (which are the same as those I found on the 1983 R100RS) and the condition. It had debris between the pressure plate and front cover and is pretty rusty.
These paint marks indicate the heavy portion of the clutch housing and the flywheel.
Clutch Housing Markings
These are the manufacturer, Fichtel & Sachs, markings on the clutch housing that faces you.
This shows the removed clutch assembly and the diaphragm spring.