1983 R100RS Install Crankshaft Timing Sprocket, Nose Bearing, Timing Chain, Main Seal & Inner Timing Cover

I completed installing all the parts behind the inner timing cover; the crankshaft timing sprocket and nose bearing, the timing chain and the chain tensioner and rubbing block. Then I installed the inner timing cover. Before installing the inner timing cover, I replaced the front main seal.

New Parts-(Top) Timing Chain Sprocket, Nose Bearing; (Bottom) Single Row Timing Chain

New Parts-(Top) Timing Chain Sprocket, Nose Bearing; (Bottom) Single Row Timing Chain

Timing Chain Tensioner and Rubbing Block Parts

Timing Chain Tensioner and Rubbing Block Parts

New Front Main Seal

New Front Main Seal

Inner Timing Cover Gasket and (2) Doughnut Gaskets (Green Inside Red Circle)

Inner Timing Cover Gasket and (2) Doughnut Gaskets (Green Inside Red Circle)

Starting Point

Starting Point

Sprocket, Nose Bearing and Timing Chain Installed

Sprocket, Nose Bearing and Timing Chain Installed

Newly Painted Inner Timing Cover Installed

Newly Painted Inner Timing Cover Installed

This year engine uses the single row timing chain and comes with a master link which is very convenient. The older dual-row chains were continuous and I had to cut the chain to remove it which was a bit of a hassle.

You can read about how I do this work here:

I shot three short videos that summarize the procedure I documented in the write-up.

VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Install Crankshaft Sprocket and Nose Bearing

VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Install Timing Chain

VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Install Inner Timing Cover

If you have the older engine with dual-row timing chain, here are links to how I did the same work with the dual row chain. The procedure is pretty much the same. That said, the better method for removing the continuous dual-row chain is to use bolt cutters, not grind off two pins on a link, as that creates a lot of shrapnel that you have to clean up.

1983 R100RS Install Flywheel

I show how I install the flywheel, aka, “clutch carrier”. I also show how I prepare the flywheel before installation, including

  • Cleaning the guide ring,
  • Polishing out the grooves in the guide ring created by the rear main seal,
  • Dressing the teeth on the flywheel to remove ridges created by the starter motor gear engaging with them,
  • Replacing the large o-ring in the guide ring,
  • Cleaning the crankshaft bolt holes and bolts, and,
  • How to center the flywheel on the bolts so the ignition timing is correct.
Bath Time For the Bell Housing and Flywheel with Engine Degreaser

Bath Time For the Bell Housing and Flywheel (in Pan at Right) with Engine Degreaser

Cycle Works Front Bearing Carrier Puller Used To Push Crankshaft To Rear

Cycle Works Front Bearing Carrier Puller Used To Push Crankshaft To Rear

Flywheel Guide Ring-Note Grooves in Shiny Band From Cut By Rear Main Seal

Flywheel Guide Ring-Note Grooves in Shiny Band From Cut By Rear Main Seal

Grooves Are Gone After Polishing Them Out :-)

Grooves Are Gone After Polishing Them Out 🙂

Bracing Engine Block Before Torquing Flywheel Bolts

Bracing Engine Block Before Torquing Flywheel Bolts

You can read about how I do this work here:

I also shot a short video that summarizes the work.

VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Prepare and Install Flywheel

1983 R100RS Install New Clutch

After I installed the flywheel, I’m ready to install the clutch. You can see how I install the flywheel here:

And, you can see how I removed the clutch here.

I decided to install all new clutch parts rather than have them rebuilt by Southland Clutch.  Here is a write-up showing how I install the clutch.

And here is a summary video showing highlights of the installation procedure.

VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Install New Clutch

The 1981+ model year clutch is a different design than was used on the earlier model years. You can see how to install the earlier style clutch here.

Here are a couple pictures from the write-up.

Clutch Centering Tool for 1981+ Clutches

Clutch Centering Tool for 1981+ Clutches

Clutch Assembly Parts

Clutch Assembly Parts

New Clutch Bolts with Washers

New Clutch Bolts with Washers

Verifying Clutch Plate Sleeve Is On Front Side of Clutch Front Cover

Verifying The Sleeve Side Of The Clutch Plate Is On The Transmission Side of The Clutch Housing Cover

Clutch Centering Tool Installed

Clutch Centering Tool Installed

Clutch Center Tool Removed - Clutch Is Installed

Clutch Centering Tool Removed – Clutch Is Installed

1983 R100RS Remove Camshaft and Crankshaft

I remove the crankshaft to check the condition of the main bearings. In order to remove it, I have to remove the camshaft first. I use the tools I bought from Cycle Works to remove the crankshaft.

Cycle Works Stage III Tools

Cycle Works Stage III Tools

I asked Matt Parkhouse, a long time airhead mechanic who lives about two hours from me, to assess the condition of the crankshaft main journals and the main bearings. He found the front bearing was serviceable but the rear main bearing was just outside the maximum clearance. He replaced the bearing and now the front and rear main bearing clearances are close.

Measuring ID of Original Rear Main Bearing

Measuring ID of Original Rear Main Bearing

Since I have to heat the front of the engine block to 275 F, I removed the stater motor and crankcase vent housing hose so they would not be damaged.

Here is the block with the crankshaft and camshaft removed.

Engine Block Looks Empty

Engine Block Looks Empty

You can read about how I do this work here:

And here is a short video of the highlights of the work:

VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Remove Camshaft and Crankshaft

 

 

1983 R100RS Remove Timing Chain, Crankshaft Timing Sprocket & Nose Bearing

I remove the inner timing cover to get access to the timing chain, the crankshaft timing sprocket and nose bearing, the timing chain tensioner and the chain rubbing block (aka, slide rail).

Inner Timing Cover Exposed After Electrical Components Removed

Inner Timing Cover Exposed After Electrical Components Removed

Inner Timing Cover Removed

Inner Timing Cover Removed

The chain, sprocket, nose bearing, chain tensioner and rubbing block wear and this affects timing. The wear can be great enough that you can hear the timing chain rattle.

What's Under The Inner Timing Cover

What’s Under The Inner Timing Cover

You can read about how I do this work here:

I made a short video summarizing the procedure that you will find here.

I will replace the crankshaft sprocket, nose bearing, chain tensioner, rubbing block and the internal components of the oil high pressure relief valve. I will post a separate write-up showing how I do that.