I am not using the stock side stand for three reasons: the bushing and bolt are trash, it’s in an inconvenient location hidden by the cylinder and lower fairing panel when extended making it hard to deploy, and the bike came with a Brown’s side stand which mounts further back on the frame so it’s easy to deploy.
I replaced the center stand pivot bolts and bushings, and the bumper it rests against when it’s retracted. The pivot bolt threads were damaged and the bushings were worn which made it hard to put the bike on the center stand. The lock nuts and return springs are in good condition so I reuse them.
|46 52 2 302 046||COUNTERSUNK HEAD SCREW – M10X30 (from 09/80), Cntr Stand||2|
|46 52 1 236 528||BUSH – 11MM (from 09/80), Cntr Stand Pivot Bolt||2|
|52 53 1 236 128||BUMP STOP – H=10 (from 09/80), Cntr Stand||1|
On the earlier model center stands, I was able to install the center stand return springs with vice grips, and/or a large flat blade screw driver. Those failed on this design so I bought a brake return spring hook at my local auto parts store. It works like a champ.
To install the center stand pivot bolts, I use a shortened 6 mm Allen wrench that will fit between the oil pan and the center stand bracket.
Install Center Stand
I had the center stand powder coated, the holes in the feet welded up and a flat steel bar welded across the feet to prevent the feet from sinking into soft surfaces like hot asphalt parking lots in the summer.
The center stand mounts on brackets welded to the bottom of the frame. The hardware includes a flat head counter sunk Allen bolt, a bushing and lock nut. There is a rubber bumper the left foot of the stand rests against when the stand is retracted. There are two return springs that mount on a pin on the inside of the frame bracket. The end with the spring coils goes next to the center stand.
Orientation Of Rear Exhaust Cross-Over Pipe
This year bike has two exhaust cross-over pipes and the rear one goes behind the transmission. The pinch bolts should be oriented vertically so they won’t interfere with the left center stand leg and return spring. I originally installed the rear cross-over pipe with the pinch bolts on the bottom as I did with the front pipe and had to reorient it.
Install Center Stand Bumper
The left foot of the center stand rests on a rubber bumper that installs in the hole on a bracket on the bottom of the frame. I used a lubricant (Ru-glide tire mounting lubricant, but soap or WD-40 should work) on the bumper stem to help slide it into the hole. It took some “persuasion” to convince the bumper to go into the hole.
Install Center Stand Pivot Bolts
The center stand pivot bolt and bushing fit through the hole in the frame bracket and the side stand.
The “top hat” of the bushing fits on the outside face of the center stand hole with the lock nut on the outside face.
The bolt head goes behind the bracket on the inside of the bracket next to the oil pan.
The center stand slides over the outside of the frame bracket.
I slide the pivot bolt into the hole in the frame bracket from the inside. I put wheel bearing grease on the top hats. I insert the bushing in the center stand hole and slide the pivot bolt through the bushing. I finger tighten the lock nut to hold the center stand leg and then the other pivot bolt and finger tighten the lock nut.
Install Return Springs
After both pivot bolts are installed, I tighten up the lock nuts tight enough that the center stand will stay in the fully retracted position without moving so it is easier to install the center stand return springs. I insert the cut-down 6 mm Allen key into the pivot bolt head. I had to cut down the Allen key so if fits between the frame bracket and the oil pan.
There are different length return springs and this bike uses the 143 mm long springs (part# 46 52 2 301 583). I tried installing the return springs using vice grips and a large blade screw driver, which works on the earlier design side stands, but had no luck. I picked up a brake spring install tool and this worked well.
I install the spring with the long leg on the pin on the inside of the center stand frame bracket so the hook on the spring end is curved upward as that orientation worked better for installation with the brake spring tool.
The rear exhaust cross-over pipe pinch bolt clears the left center stand leg and return spring and the left foot rests against the rubber bumper when the stand is fully retracted.
I loosen the lock nuts on the pivot bolts enough that the return springs retract the stand fully.
Install Brown’s Side Stand
The Brown’s side stand bracket has two holes. The rear hole mounts on the rear engine mounting stud with an added star washer to keep the bracket from rotating. The front hole uses a special bolt and nut to secure the left exhaust header bracket which would normally be mounted on the rear engine mounting stud.
Therefore, I installed the Brown’s side stand when I installed the mufflers and you can see how I do that here:
Checking Out the Side and Center Stands
I take bike off the lift to test out the side and center stands. Both work smoothly and it’s nice to be able to put the bike on the center stand again. 🙂
I am a big fan of your web site and enjoy your in depth articles. I also have a 1983 r100rs that I purchased new and currently have over 600,000 miles on the bike. How did you get the “Brown’s” side stand to look like new?
Thank you for the kind words. In short, elbow grease, steel wool (0000) and AutoSol Marine polish.
Thanks for posting this, Brook.
I am in the process of replacing the well worn centerstand on my 83R80RT. The right round foot is more than half wasted, the left pretty bad, too. I opted for a new used centerstand on ebay yesterday and removed the old one today.It definitely needs replacement. I noted that you wrote that the bushings I.D. are 11mm yet my old ones measure 10.1 maybe 10.2mm any idea why there is a difference?
I will be ordering new ones and am wondering how they would work with my usable bolts? Buying new are an expense I would like to avoid.
Also, are the new nuts nylocks?
The bushing size is from the parts fiche which indicates it is 11 mm. I did not measure mine.
The bushing and bolt take a lot of abuse. If they are worn, the center stand doesn’t work smoothly. That’s why I replace both the pivot bolt and bushing.
The center stand for my 1972 /5 (46521234757) is different than that posted above and for the life of me I cannot find a method ( coins?) to stretch the spring the short distance to attach. Surely there is an easier method than using brute force. I tried vise grips, looping a wire and pulling which bent the spring ( new on order). Also purchase an auto drum brake tool as suggested but there’s no room to gain leverage. What am I missing (?), I’m sure there’s a better way.
Can’t ride w/o cs .
Any guidance is greatly appreciated!
Also interested in the 327 mm engine mounting bolts as I have a set of Henry floor boards which leaves little meat for the nut on standard 306 mm. Do you have (2) in stock?
First of all, the part# for the 327 mm engine mounting stud is (46 71 1 230 475) and you can get it at any BMW dealer. It’s the stock length for the 1983 RS for both the front and rear studs. The /5 motor used two different size studs: Front (46 71 1 230 762 [306mm]); Rear (46 71 1 230 475 ).
Second of all, the center stand on a 1983 model is different from the 1970’s /5 series. You can look at all the /5 work I did here:
–> 1973 BMW R75/5 Rebuild: Project Index Unfortunately, this material doesn’t include installing the center stand.
Center stand springs can be a bear. I install them with the stand positioned so the distance between the two mount points for the spring is at a minimum. Recently I have used an automotive brake spring tool successfully.
What brand and type is the yellow lift that you are using? Recommendations or other suggestions / warnings.
I got this at Harbour Freight. It is portable so it doesn’t permanently take up floor space. It’s been very useful.
Having fitted the centre stand I find that it was fouling the spring ,so I changed the mounting bolts ,as I got the bike in a million bits much doing and donting it’s on ,have rebuilt the bike r100rs many thanks to you brook Regards Derek