The fairing consists of seven panels, a windscreen, dash, headlight tunnel, front turn signals and parking light and four mounting brackets, an upper, a middle and two lower brackets.
Fairing Components and Attachment
Here is a short video with an overview of how the fairing panels and brackets are connected together.
The fairing consists of (7) panels and the dash and mirror brackets.
- (2) Upper Side Panels
- (2) Lower Side Panels
- (1) Top Center Panel
- (1) Middle Center Panel
- (1) Lower Center Panel
BMW uses a variety of fasteners on the fairing as shown in the pictures below.
Here are the specifications for the fasteners with the quantity in ( ).
- #1- M6x25 Hex Bolt, (2) Flat Washer and Wave Washer (2)
- #2- 4.2×13 Fillister Head Self-tapping Screw, Flat Washer, Tinnerman Clip-4.2 (8)
- #3- 4.2×16 Sheet Metal Screw, Recessed Oval Head, Dished Washer, Tinnerman Clip-4.2 (9)
- #4- M6x10 Hex Bolt, Flat and Wave Washer (4) [split lower side panel] (4)
- #5- 4.2×19 Sheet Metal Screw, Recessed Oval Head, Dished Washer, Tinnerman Clip-4.2 (9)
- #7- Wood Screw with Flat Washer (10)
- #8- M6x14 Hex Bolt, Wave Washer (2)
Here is the location of fasteners in the upper side panels that attach to every other panel and to the top and middle fairing brackets.
Here is the location of fasteners in the middle and lower center panels that attach to the upper side panels and the lower side panels.
This is the fastener that goes into the bottom fairing bracket securing the bottom of the lower side panel.
This windscreen is secured with nylon bolts, nuts and washers that go through holes in the dash.
But, the stock screen used plastic expanding rivets that are not reusable. The bolts are much more convenient.
I can get access to the nuts for the front windshield bolts from the hole for the parking light housing. I can get my fingers, or a 10 mm wrench, onto the nylon nuts to hold them while I unscrew the windshield bolts.
I remove the rubber gasket that fits under the dash to seal the bottom of the windscreen.
Remove Front Turn Signals and Mirrors
I remove the wires from the turn signal housing inside the fairing.
Then I remove the two screws holding the turn signal lens and remove the front turn signal assembly with the bulb inside from the hole in the upper side panel.
Remove Parking Light & Headlight Tunnel
The parking light housing is secured by the two screws that attach the clear parking light lens. I pull the parking light housing out of the top center panel and push the rubber water proof cover off the parking light housing. I pull the BROWN and BLACK–White wires off the terminals inside the housing.
The headlight tunnel is secured with four Phillips head screws at the four corners of the cover. The screws are hidden underneath the black rubber gasket. I pull up the gasket at the corners to get the screwdriver onto the screws. When these screws are loosened (they don’t have to be removed from the black housing, I can pull the headlight tunnel out of the top center panel.
I have to remove the 14 copper rivets that secure the dash to the body panels.
If they are fastened tightly enough, I can use a drill bit to remove most of the top flange of the rivet. I use diagonal pliers to catch the edge of the top flange of the rivet and bend it up and then deform it toward the center of the rivet. Then I can drive the rivet out with a punch and hammer. If the rivets are loose so I can’t drill the top flange, I use the pliers on the top flange and deform it toward the center of the rivet.
Here is short video of how I deform the top of the rivet so I can drive it it out with a punch and hammer.
Remove Volt Meter, Clock & Ignition Switch From Dash
With the copper rivets removed, I can remove the dash off the top of the upper fairing panels. I have to disconnect the dash wiring sub-harness first so I clip the zip ties securing it to the upper fairing bracket.
Then I disconnect the sub-harness connector. It has six male spades.
The main wiring harness has six female slots.
Now I can flip the dash upside down to get to the instrument and ignition switch wires and the clock and volt meter mounting brackets.
The volt meter has a GREEN-Black wire that provides power to the meter, a BROWN ground wire and a BLACK–White wire for the light bulb.
The BLACK–White wire was modified with a spade connector. This is not stock.
After I remove the wires, I can remove the knurled nuts holding the bracket against the underside of the dash and then pull the volt meter out of the front of the dash.
The ignition switch has a RED, GREEN, GREEN–White and GREY wire.
The switch has five terminals, but two of them, terminal (30) with the RED wire, are tied together. You can see which terminals were used as three of them are shiny and the grey wire is still attached in this picture.
The clock has RED wire that powers the clock even when the ignition is off, a BROWN ground wire and a BLACK–White wire for the light bulb.
As with the volt meter, removing the two knurled nuts releases the mounting bracket and the clock is pulled out from the front of the dash.
Here is a video of the instruments in the dash showing the wiring.
The ignition switch is removed from the front of the dash. The bezel on the front has two holes. I use needle nose pliers to unscrew it and then remove the switch.
Remove Upper Side Panels
As shown in the previous video about how the fairing goes together, the top panel is secured to the center top panel with several wood screws and two 10 mm bolts, one on the bottom leg of the upper fairing bracket and the other at the top of the upper fairing side panel.
The upper side panel attaches to the top center panel using wood screws.
Tinnerman clips with screws secure the upper side panel to the middle center panel and the lower side panel.
There is a 10 mm bolt through the middle fairing bracket that attaches the upper side to lower side panels.
Here is view after the upper side panel is removed.
Remove Lower Side Panels
The lower side panel has tinnerman clips and screws that connect it to the bottom center panel.
It also has two bolts (only one on the earlier, solid lower side panel) that secures the bottom of the split lower side panel to the lower fairing bracket.
The lower fairing bracket is bolted to the frame with the front engine mount stud. The split in the lower side panel allows the panel to be bent so you can slide it past the exhaust pipe. The earlier solid lower side panel required the exhaust to be removed to remove the lower side panel.
Here is a short video of how to get the lower side panel past the exhaust header.
Remove Middle and Bottom Center Panels.
These two panels are secured with Tinnerman clips and screws similar to the those used to connect them to the upper and lower side panels.
The middle center panel also has rubber bushings that the brake line couplings go through. I pull the bushings out of the hole in the middle center panel and then slide the steel brake line out of the panel through the slot in the hole.
The bottom center panel has one screw and Tinnerman clip in the middle that connects it to the middle center panel.
Here’s what the project looks like at this point.
Brook, I enjoyed and implemented your technique of re-establishing the white lettering on the black plastic cover of the Bing carbs. I have been reviewing your site to find a method to painting the letters on some switches on my “dashbboard” and handcontrols on my 78 R100RS but have not located any. I have tried a very brush but my hands are not that steady anymore, so the results were not satisfactory. Do you have any tips or tricks that would provide me a better result?
I’m pleased the technique I used, although a bit crude, worked for you as well.
I would like to restore the paint on the dash lettering on my current project, rebuilding a 1983 R100RS into an RT model. I’m staring at it and trying to come up with a plan. I’ll post a solution when I figure one out.
Brook enjoy your work I am working on a an 81 R100Rs and noticed your bottom center panel on the 1983 is “open” for better cooling but has a space for the oil cooler, is there a part number on it? I had read that the mono lever rs had that type of front cover but not sure it is compatible with the earlier RS, Thanks Bob
If you check MAX BMW parts fiche for the 1977-84 R100RS (https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51647&rnd=07242017), and click section 46 Frame, Fairing, Cases, you will see the part numbers of the fairing panels.
I think the part# is (46 63 1 238 920). They show a superceed part number, but it doesn’t exist.
I hope that helps.
Very nice work Brook – a useful primer on how to remove and install the fairing.
I’m working on a similar document for the RT fairing. So far, it’s much more of challenge than the RS fairing due to the introduction of an adjustable windscreen. Perhaps I’ll get it all put together in the next week or two, if I don’t find I’m still missing some pieces of hardware.