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Starting in 1977 with the /7 series bikes, BMW changed the orientation of the seat hinge pins on the sub-frame so both the front and rear pins point to the rear. The earlier seats had the front pin pointing to the rear and the rear pin pointing to the front. The only way to remove the seat from the sub-frame was to remove the seat hinges.
The /7 series and later seats use a clip on the rear hinge pin to keep the seat from sliding to the rear and coming off the hinge pins. Frequently this clip goes missing, as is the case with this bike.
To remove the seat, slide it to the rear until it comes off the hinge pins.
Then pull it toward you closer to the rear fender and move the seat forward while partially closing it and then pull it upward until you get the front hinge to clear the sub-frame tube.
There is a wide spot where the sub-frame is farther from the fender. Move the seat forward a bit and use the same procedure to get the rear hinge past the sub-frame tube. If you are lucky and hold the seat at just the right orientation, it is possible to get both hinges to clear the sub-frame tube at the same time.
Remove Cowling From the Seat
The cowling is attached to the seat with a number of Phillips head screws with washers.
Two of these were pretty rusted, so I used Kroil to loosen them. I put a little around the head of the screw and waited 15 minutes. Then I could back out the screw a couple turns until it got hard to turn again. I tighten the screw a bit so it was loose and add a couple more drops of Kroil. I repeated this procedure four times and the screws finally came out without completely wallowing out the slots in the Phillips heads.
Remove Grab Rail From Cowl
The grab rail attaches with four bolts. The two rear Phillips head bolts go in from the outside and are secured with a lock nut that’s under the foam pad glued to the rear cone section of the cowl.
The front bolts go in from the inside and screws into a threaded insert inside the front of the grab rail tube.
There are four special black plastic spacers with a curved cut out that matches the grab rail tube diameter between the grab rail and the cowl; two short ones for the front grab rail mounts and two longer ones for the rear grab rail mounts.
Remove Foam Pad From Cone Section of Cowl
Since I am painting the cowl, I remove the foam pad in the rear cone section. If you go slowly, you can remove it without tearing it.
But, I managed to tear a small piece at the edge. I use contact cement to glue it back to the pad.
Remove Front Rubber Bumpers From Cowl
There are some rubber bumpers in the front of the cowl. Again, since I am painting the cowl, I remove them. A small screw driver works well. I push the inside button of the bumper through the hole and then pry the bumper out of the hole from the other side.
I still need to remove the roundel and the emblem from the cowl and then it will be ready to send to the painter.
It’s a good idea to cover the right shock, top mounting bolt, with some duck-tape to protect the seat pan’s paint when sliding off the seat/seat pan.
Trust me, I learned the hard/expensive way!