Contents
Now that I removed the top end, I’m ready to remove the engine from the frame.
Engine Top End Removed
Video
I shot a short video summarizing this work.
VIDEO: 1983 BMW R80ST Remove The Engine From The Frame
Remove Oil Pressure Sender & Oil Filter Cover
I remove the oil pressure sender on the left side of the engine block and the oil filter cover and the oil filter on the right side of the engine block. I can’t remove the engine from the frame until they are removed as there isn’t enough clearance to remove the engine from the lower frame tubes.
Oil Pressure Sender Has To Be Removed From Rear, Lower Left Side Of Engine Block
Oil Filter Cover Has To Be Removed From Front, Lower Right Side Of Engine Block
I remove the oil pressure sender with a 24 mm wrench.
Remove Oil Pressure Sender With 24 mm Wrench
I remove the oil filter cover with a 6 mm box end wrench.
Remove Three Oil Filter Cover 6 mm Bolts With 10 mm Box End Wrench
My oil filter cover has a gasket. The oil filter has a rubber O-ring and shim that seal the end of the filter against the oil pressure. The filter is the un-hinged version.
Engine Oil Filter Parts: Shim, Red O-ring, Oil Filter Cover With Gasket, Bolts and Oil Filter
I check the can the oil filter sits inside of and visually inspect the oil filter high pressure relief valve cover. It looks okay with the slot aligned with the index marks on the rear of the can. The bottom of the oil filter can has debris so I will clean it out.
Oil Filter High Pressure Relief Valve Looks Okay
Debris In Bottom Of Oil Filter Canister
Remove Engine Mounting Studs
When I remove the engine mounting studs the engine will want to tip forward as it’s front heavy. I use a strap the secure the rear of the engine to the portable motorcycle lift by threading the strap between the engine and the frame and running it under the lift.
Rear Of Engine Strapped To Portable Motorcycle Lift To Keep It From Tipping Forward When Frame Removed
I loosen the nuts on one end of the front and rear engine mounting studs. Then I use a long shaft Phillips head screwdriver as a drift and tap the studs out of the frame and engine.
Front Engine Stud Nut
Rear Engine Stud Nut
Remove Rear Engine Stud Using Long Shaft Phillips Screwdriver As A Drift
The rear engine stud has two spacers that I remove. They are the same thickness and fit between the engine block and the frame.
Rear Engine Stud Spacer Fits Between Engine Block And Frame
Rear Engine Stud Spacers
The front engine stud is longer than the rear (Front: 315mm; Rear: 298 mm). The front engine stud has a thicker spacer on the left than the right (Left: 9 mm; Right: 6 mm). The right spacer is the same thickness as the two spacers on the rear engine mounting stud.
Front (Top) and Rear (Bottom) Engine Studs-Front Stud Is Longer (315 mm) Than Rear Stud (298 mm)
Engine Studs And Spacers Detail: Top Is Front Stud
Front Engine Stud Spacers-Left Is Thicker (9 mm) Than Right (6 mm). The Right Spacer Is The Same Thickness As Rear Spacers
Rear Engine Stud Spacers Are Same Thickness (6 mm)
Each stud has a nut, wave washer and flat washer on each end. My rear engine stud is missing the flat washer on the right side.
Engine Stud Hardware Detail-Nut, Wave Washer, Flat Washer
Secure The Frame
I use two straps to secure the frame at the rear to keep it upright.
Stabilizing The Frame With Straps
Stabilizing The Frame With Straps
I remove the strap on the rear of the engine and then standing on the left side of the engine, I bend my legs and put my right hand inside the top engine cover and my left hand under the front engine cover. I tilt the engine toward me while I lift it up with my legs and swing it out of the frame and put it on the floor.
Getting Ready To Remove Engine From Frame
Lifting Engine Out Of Frame Using My Legs
Engine Out Of The Frame
Engine Removed
All Done
I return the engine to the portable motorcycle lift and strap IT down so I can move it around the shop easily.
Engine Ready For Moving Around The Shop
At this point, I have completed disassembly of the R80ST down to the frame 🙂
Frame