I am not using the stock side stand for three reasons: the bushing and bolt are trash, it’s in an inconvenient location hidden by the cylinder and lower fairing panel when extended making it hard to deploy, and the bike came with a Brown’s side stand which mounts further back on the frame so it’s easy to deploy. The left exhaust header bracket is secured to the Brown’s side stand bracket so I installed the side stand when I installed the exhaust system.
Brown’s Side Stand
Brown’s Side Stand Installed
I had the center stand repaired and powder coated. I replaced the pivot bolts and bushings due to wear and tear.
Center Stand Wear and Tear After 82,000 Miles And 37 Years
Putting the mufflers on this bike is exhausting. [laugh track]. Okay, I just couldn’t resist that one.
I decided to replace the exhaust system due to the amount of corrosion I found on the original one. This year/model bike has two cross-over pipes while the earlier year airheads (before the 1981 model year, or before 09/1980) had a single cross-over pipe beneath the front engine cover. The rumor is the second cross-over pipe improves engine performance over the single pipe models. I got the exhaust system from Euro MotoElectrics
I also install the Brown’s side stand that came with the bike as it attaches to the left side header bracket and the front hole of the side stand bracket uses special bolt and nut supplied with the side stand. There is also a toothed washer for the rear hole that mounts on the rear engine stud with the standard nut to keep the side stand bracket from rotating on the engine stud.
Here is a link to the detailed installation procedure and a short video summary of the installation.
Installation of the steering damper mechanism is straight forward. One thing that you can get wrong is aligning the number on the damper rod with the correct position of the damper rack it adjusts. I show how to get that orientation correct.
Here is the link to the detailed procedure and to a short video summary of the installation process.
I installed the rear fender assembly that includes the rear turn signals, tail light and brake light housing, the fender, mud flap and license plate bracket with side reflectors. This is easy work if you remove the rear wheel. But, there is a lot of hardware used and I show what goes where.
This is a link to the detailed documentation and a short video summarizing the work.
I’m converting this RS model to a RT. The only difference in the brake system is the length of the hose from the front master cylinder to the front brake line manifold underneath the gas tank (RT: Part# 34 32 1 241 565; RS: Part# 34 32 1 241 564). Since the RT handlebars are wider, that hose is longer. The rear brake system is the same on both the RS and RT models.
Here is a link to the documentation of how I do this work.
And this is a short video summarizing the procedure.
VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS/RT Install Front Brake System
I previously rebuilt the two front and one rear calipers and rebuilt the rear master cylinder. The front master cylinder was so badly corroded that I replaced it along with the entire right handlebar perch. I also installed the three disk brake rotors on the newly powder coated wheels. You can read about how I did that work here.
I opted to use the mechanical front brake switch that mounts in the right perch instead of the original brake fluid pressure switch that mounts on the rear of the front brake manifold under the gas tank. The hole in the pressure switch can trap an air bubble making it more difficult to bleed the brakes.
I plugged the rear hole in the front brake line manifold where the front brake light pressure switch mounts. McMaster-Carr sells a plug with copper crush washer that’s perfect for this.
McMaster-Carr Stainless Steel Plug With Copper Washer
Stainless Steel Plug Installed In Front Brake Line Manifold Hole For Pressure Switch
I now have brakes and the bike is getting pretty close to being finished.