About breams

Baby Boomer generation. Integrator of the disconnected. Engineer, BMW motorcycle addict and Iron Butt enthusiast.

1983 R100RS Replace Oil Pan & Suction Flange Gasket, Get Oil Pan Mating Surface Flat

It’s time to work on the bottom of the engine.

Engine Block Securely Mounted On Harbor Freight Motorcycle Stand

Engine Block Securely Mounted On Harbor Freight Motorcycle Stand

I replaced the oil pan and the oil pump suction flange gaskets.

New Gaskets-Green Is Oil Pump Suction Flange Gasket

New Gaskets-Green Is Oil Pump Suction Flange Gasket

Along the way, I checked the oil pan to see if the mating surface was flat.  It was not, so I sanded it and now it’s flat. That should go a long way to ensure the new pan gasket does not leak.

Checking For Uneven Mating Surface On Oil Pan

Checking For Uneven Mating Surface On Oil Pan

The gaskets I need are included in the EMC engine gasket kit. I’m also going to replace the oil pan bolts and wave washers with new stainless steel hardware I got in the bolt kit  from “The Bolt Guy” for the RT model since I’m converting the RS to an RT, not that RT pan bolts are different from RS ones.

To prevent the threads of the stainless steel bolts from galling in the aluminum bolt holes in the engine block, I apply anti-seize. However, it’s a lubricant. Since the recommended torque for the bolts is 6 FT-Lbs, which is quite low, if I torque the lubricated stainless steel bolts to that value, I stand a good chance of stripping the threads. So I reduce the torque by 20% to protect the threads.

For low torque like this, I always use my INCH pound torque wrench.

You can read about how I did the work here:

And here is a short video summarizing the procedure.

VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Replace Oil Pan & Oil Suction Flange Gaskets

1983 R100RS Install Euro MotoElectrics 400 Watt Charging System

I’m upgrading the charging system from the stock Bosch 240 watt alternator to the Euro MotoElectrics (EME) 400 watt, Type III charging system. This alternator uses the same design as the Bosch one with an electromagnetic rotor with brushes.

EME Type III 400 Watt Kit Components

EME Type III 400 Watt Kit Components

I also decided to replace the stator cover, part# BOALT-StatFram107Plus and also replaced the battery (+) cable and the voltage regulator sub-harness. EME provides two cable kits: one has the battery (+) and (-) cables, part# BCK-475216 and the other has the voltage regulator and the charging system wires that connect to the diode board, part# BOALT-HAR80. The kit has some of the same wires included in the Type III charging system kit and is for the R80. But the voltage regulator sub-harness is the same as the one used on the R100 and the R80 kit is less expensive than the R100 kit as it has fewer wires.

EME 107 mm Complete Stator Housing

EME 107 mm Complete Stator Housing

EME Battery (+) Cable

EME Battery (+) Cable Included In Battery Cable Kit 

EMC BOALT-HAR80 Wiring Kit

EMC BOALT-HAR80 Wiring Kit, BCK-475216

Here is what the completed installation looks like.

Charging System Installed On Inner Timing Cover

Charging System Installed On Inner Timing Cover

I documented the procedure here.

I also made a video summarizing the procedure and posted it to my YouTube channel.

VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Install Euro MotoElectrics 400 Watt Charging System

1983 R100RS Install Crankshaft Timing Sprocket, Nose Bearing, Timing Chain, Main Seal & Inner Timing Cover

I completed installing all the parts behind the inner timing cover; the crankshaft timing sprocket and nose bearing, the timing chain and the chain tensioner and rubbing block. Then I installed the inner timing cover. Before installing the inner timing cover, I replaced the front main seal.

New Parts-(Top) Timing Chain Sprocket, Nose Bearing; (Bottom) Single Row Timing Chain

New Parts-(Top) Timing Chain Sprocket, Nose Bearing; (Bottom) Single Row Timing Chain

Timing Chain Tensioner and Rubbing Block Parts

Timing Chain Tensioner and Rubbing Block Parts

New Front Main Seal

New Front Main Seal

Inner Timing Cover Gasket and (2) Doughnut Gaskets (Green Inside Red Circle)

Inner Timing Cover Gasket and (2) Doughnut Gaskets (Green Inside Red Circle)

Starting Point

Starting Point

Sprocket, Nose Bearing and Timing Chain Installed

Sprocket, Nose Bearing and Timing Chain Installed

Newly Painted Inner Timing Cover Installed

Newly Painted Inner Timing Cover Installed

This year engine uses the single row timing chain and comes with a master link which is very convenient. The older dual-row chains were continuous and I had to cut the chain to remove it which was a bit of a hassle.

You can read about how I do this work here:

I shot three short videos that summarize the procedure I documented in the write-up.

VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Install Crankshaft Sprocket and Nose Bearing

VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Install Timing Chain

VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Install Inner Timing Cover

If you have the older engine with dual-row timing chain, here are links to how I did the same work with the dual row chain. The procedure is pretty much the same. That said, the better method for removing the continuous dual-row chain is to use bolt cutters, not grind off two pins on a link, as that creates a lot of shrapnel that you have to clean up.

1983 R100RS Install Flywheel

I show how I install the flywheel, aka, “clutch carrier”. I also show how I prepare the flywheel before installation, including

  • Cleaning the guide ring,
  • Polishing out the grooves in the guide ring created by the rear main seal,
  • Dressing the teeth on the flywheel to remove ridges created by the starter motor gear engaging with them,
  • Replacing the large o-ring in the guide ring,
  • Cleaning the crankshaft bolt holes and bolts, and,
  • How to center the flywheel on the bolts so the ignition timing is correct.
Bath Time For the Bell Housing and Flywheel with Engine Degreaser

Bath Time For the Bell Housing and Flywheel (in Pan at Right) with Engine Degreaser

Cycle Works Front Bearing Carrier Puller Used To Push Crankshaft To Rear

Cycle Works Front Bearing Carrier Puller Used To Push Crankshaft To Rear

Flywheel Guide Ring-Note Grooves in Shiny Band From Cut By Rear Main Seal

Flywheel Guide Ring-Note Grooves in Shiny Band From Cut By Rear Main Seal

Grooves Are Gone After Polishing Them Out :-)

Grooves Are Gone After Polishing Them Out 🙂

Bracing Engine Block Before Torquing Flywheel Bolts

Bracing Engine Block Before Torquing Flywheel Bolts

You can read about how I do this work here:

I also shot a short video that summarizes the work.

VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Prepare and Install Flywheel

1983 R100RS Install New Clutch

After I installed the flywheel, I’m ready to install the clutch. You can see how I install the flywheel here:

And, you can see how I removed the clutch here.

I decided to install all new clutch parts rather than have them rebuilt by Southland Clutch.  Here is a write-up showing how I install the clutch.

And here is a summary video showing highlights of the installation procedure.

VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Install New Clutch

The 1981+ model year clutch is a different design than was used on the earlier model years. You can see how to install the earlier style clutch here.

Here are a couple pictures from the write-up.

Clutch Centering Tool for 1981+ Clutches

Clutch Centering Tool for 1981+ Clutches

Clutch Assembly Parts

Clutch Assembly Parts

New Clutch Bolts with Washers

New Clutch Bolts with Washers

Verifying Clutch Plate Sleeve Is On Front Side of Clutch Front Cover

Verifying The Sleeve Side Of The Clutch Plate Is On The Transmission Side of The Clutch Housing Cover

Clutch Centering Tool Installed

Clutch Centering Tool Installed

Clutch Center Tool Removed - Clutch Is Installed

Clutch Centering Tool Removed – Clutch Is Installed