Previously, I removed the heads, cylinders, pistons, rings and connecting rods. I installed new rocker arm needle bearings to replace the broken bearing cages. I disassembled the heads and inspected the valves and seats. You can read how I did that work here.
I had the Nikasil cylinders replated and honed to match the new high compression (9.5:1) pistons. I had the connecting rods refurbished and I had the heads rebuilt. So now it’s time to put it all back together again.
The cylinders had the push rod tubes and the two short studs at the 12:00 and 6:00 position of the heads removed, so I also have to install them.
I started from this:
Ready To Remove Heads & Cylinders
Engine Out of Frame
Piston Crown with Carbon
Score in Right Cap Bearing Sheel
Right Side Crankshaft Throw
Left Exhaust Lower Rocker-Recovered Needle Bearings and Cage Pieces
Right Intake Rocker Busing
Right Intake Rocker Shaft
Valve Assembly Components
And finished with this:
Push Rod Tubes Installed
Piston with Rings Installed
Sliding Cylinder and Piston onto Long Cylinder Studs
Ready to Snug Cylinder to Engine Block-Push Rod Tube Rubbers Started
These write-ups cover disassembly of the handlebars, forks, steering stem, steering damper and fork lock, rebuilding and restoring the wheels, wheel bearings, fork damper rods, fork sliders, steering stem bearings, fork lock, steering damper and installation of a new Toaster Tan top brace and steering stem “acorn” nut.
This bike had the blue front calipers and the ATE front disk brakes with the drum rear leading and trailing shoe brakes. Originally, the wheels were wire spoke but a previous owner upgraded them to the later snowflake wheels.
As Purchased with Later Snowflake Wheels
Blue Anodizing on Calipers Has Faded
I rebuilt the two front calipers, the master cylinder and replaced the rear brake shoes. The blue anodized calipers had faded so I had them anodized, but this was a dismal failure. Either the shop who did the work botched it or it’s not so easy to anodize old parts. I found a paint that replicates blue anodizing. I stripped the botched anodizing and painted them. I like the result.
I replaced the lower steel brake line that goes between the caliper and the union that is inserted into the lower front fairing with stainless steel lines from Rocky Point Cycle. I replaced the rubber lines with braided steel lines with a translucent blue cover and chrome unions from Spiegler Performance Parts.
Here is the finished product. When the fairing comes back from the paint shop (soon, real soon now 🙂 ) I’ll connect the upper steel lines to the braided steel line through the bushing in the top center fairing panel.
Refinished and Rebuilt Calipers Installed in Fork Lowers
Speigler Braided Steel & Rocky Point Cycle Stainless Steel Caliper Line
Refinished & Rebuilt Master Cylinder Mounted on Spine Tube