I’m getting close to the end of the assembly of the bike. One of the last little projects is the installation of the carburetors, air box, air tubes, choke lever assembly and cables. You can read about this work here:
Although this is not complex work, it always seems to take me more time than I antipate to get everything assembled neatly and route the cables so there is minimal resistance.
I ran into a small problem aligning the throttle twist grip with the cam that pulls the throttle cables. I had to advance the registration marks from the 9:00 position to about 7:00 or there wasn’t enough slack in the cable for the carburetor butterfly to be completely closed. I had to replace throttle perch and and cover on the right handle bar with the newer version which has a longer path for the cables and chain on the cam.
With this done, I’m very close to the first engine start after seven years of hibernation.
Here are a couple of the pictures from the write-up.
Installing Tank to Tee and Cross-over Fuel Line
Choke Lever Parts
Choke Handle Installed in the Body So Teeth Engage Cable Rack Teeth
aption id=”” align=”alignnone” width=”640″] Choke Body and Choke Cables Installed on Left Air Box Cover[/caption]
Left Carburetor, Bushings and Air Tube Installed
Carburetor Vertical Alignment
From the Saddle View of Carburetor with Cables Installed
Greetings from Vermont. I will be replacing the carb to head bushings and washers on my ’71 R50/5 due to looseness and air infiltration. Are they a dry install?
Hi Joseph,
Yes, they are.
Best.
Brook.
Thanks a bunch Brook. They were a tight fit. All is back together. Nice to be rid of that low throttle unpredictable surge. Apparently both of them leaked as evidenced by a plug-fouling test ride.
Hi Joseph,
Yes, I’ve found the threaded spigots can loosen producing an air leak. They are easier to remove if you get the engine hot as the aluminum head expands more than the steel bushing.
Best.
Brook.