1973 BMW R75/5 Rebuild: Install Engine Top End

At long last, I’m ready to install the top end (pistons, rings, cylinders and heads) on the engine. Previously, I bead blasted the cylinders, measured the bores for ovality and taper, ground the ends down on new 0.5 mm oversize rings to get the correct end gap and had the heads rebuilt by Randy Long.  The parts have been sitting in boxes patiently waiting while I got the engine and wiring back into the frame.

Here is the write-up on this part of the project:

I had an adventure along the way with a new tool, a ring expander. Earlier in the project I used it to remove the rings and decided to use it to install them rather than use my fingers as has been my practice in the past. But, as I was “playing” with it with the the oil control ring, for some stupid reason, I squeezed the expander repeatedly to see how well it worked. If you expand a ring too much, you get this result. 🙁

Too Much Expansion Gets You a Broken Oil Control Ring :-(

Too Much Expansion Gets You a Broken Oil Control Ring 🙁

That cost me about $70 with tax and 2 weeks of lost time. This is yet another one of those experiences when I want to take a mulligan on what I just did a second ago :-).

Another surprise is the way the cam shaft and cam follower are aligned. I hadn’t expected the follower to be offset from the center line of the cam lobe, but it’s over about half way.

Left Side Exhaust Cam and Follower

Exhaust Cam Showing Off-center Cam Follower

This is done so the rotating cam lobe causes a torque on the cam follower making it spin and in turn, spinning the push rod. The idea is to have even wearing of the cam lobe, the follower and the push rod. I was aware that the rocker arm tappet causes the valve to spin for a similar reason, but I wasn’t aware the same thing happens in the bottom end.

I followed Oak Okleshen’s documentation, “Manual 1: Boxer Top End Disassembly, 1970-1975” and “Manual 2: Boxer Top End Reassembly 1970-1975” available directly from him for a modest fee.

Email: “askoak” at “aol” dot “com”
Address:
Oak Okleshen #35
22637 S. Ridgeway
Richton Park, IL 60471

It covered an issue with aligning the rocker arms correctly on /5 heads that I was not aware of before. And, it has a lot of details that should help you stay out of trouble, if you don’t decide to “play” with your new ring expander 😉

Here are a couple of the other pictures from the write-up.

Progress So Far

Progress So Far-Ready To Install Engine Top End

Right Side Cam on Compression

Cam Appearance on Compression Stoke

Applying Light Oil Film on Inside of Cylinder Bore

Applying Light Oil Film on Inside of Cylinder Bore

Inserting Piston in Cylinder with Ring Compressor

Inserting Piston in Cylinder with Ring Compressor

Correct Left Side Piston Orientation with "Vorn" Pointing to Front

Correct Left Side Piston Orientation with “Vorn” Pointing to Front

Hylomar on Engine Case

Hylomar on Engine Case

Frozen Wrist Pin and C-rings

Frozen Wrist Pin and C-rings

Aligning Push Rod Tube Rubber Gasket in Engine Case

Aligning Push Rod Tube Rubber Gasket in Engine Case

Left Side Rocker Arm Assembly with Push Rods

Left Side Rocker Arm Assembly with Push Rods

Proper Orientation of Rocker Block (Slot Facing Outside of Head) and Nut Boss on Face of Block

Proper Orientation of Rocker Block (Slot Facing Outside of Head) and Nut Boss on Face of Block

Measuring Distance Between Rocker Blocks

Measuring Distance Between Rocker Blocks

View From the Saddle

View From the Saddle

1973 BMW R75/5 Rebuild: Install Wiring Harness & Electrical System

It’s time to take a big step forward on the project and install the electrical system. Here is the write-up on this part of the project.

I removed the wiring harness and all the peripheral electric components so I could have the frame powder coated.  I documented some of that disassembly in this write-up:

At this point, with the exception of the rear fender and the attached turn signal and brake light assembly, I have everything installed in the frame that the wiring harness connects to. Thanks to a lot of pictures I took during the general disassembly of connection details and wire routing, putting it all back together was pretty straight forward.

Here are a couple pictures for the many I included in the write-up.

Broken Wiring Harness Sheath

Broken Wiring Harness Sheath

Corroded Lug on Starter Relay Wire to (+) Battery Terminal

Corroded Lug on Starter Relay Wire to (+) Battery Terminal

Engine Wires Attached to Starter Relay

Engine Wires Attached to Starter Relay

Horn Assembly

Horn Assembly

Horn Mounted

Horn Mounted

Attaching Headlight Shell Gaskets

Attaching Headlight Shell Gaskets

Mounted Headlight Shell

Mounted Headlight Shell

Threading Main Wiring Harness From Headlight Along Frame Backbone

Threading Main Wiring Harness From Headlight Along Frame Backbone

Right Control Perch Switch Cable Routing

Routing of Right Control Perch Switch Cable From Headlight

Starting to Pull Rear Frame Wiring Branch Through Rear Frame Tube

Starting to Pull Rear Frame Wiring Branch Through Rear Frame Tube

Routing Neutral Switch & Oil Pressure (Through Hole in Frame Gusset) and Rear Brake Light Wires (Under Battery Box)

Routing Rear Brake Light Wires (Under Battery Box)

Transmission Neutral Switch Wire

Transmission Neutral Switch Wire Routing Underneath the Frame

Connect Battery (+) Cable to Starter

Connect Battery (+) Cable to Starter Motor Solenoid

Smoke Test Success - It's ALIVE!!!

Smoke Test Success – It’s ALIVE!!!

What The Project Looks Like With Electrical Wiring Installed

What The Project Looks Like With Electrical Wiring Installed

1973 BMW R75/5 Rebuild: Install Front Brakes

More progress being made on the project with the new front brakes, brake cable & handlebars installed.  You can read about how I did that here.

Thanks to Bob Fleischer, again, for tips and tricks and to Duane Ausherman.

I found a nifty template from Scott Lydiard (BMWScotter.com) that helped get the front brake levers aligned correctly on the brake levers.  Scott’s site is having some problems but he was kind enough to provide a PDF of this template that I provide a link to in the write-up.  Here’s a picture of the template.

Scott  Lydiard's Brake Lever Alignment Template

Scott Lydiard’s Brake Lever Alignment Template

You can cut it out and use it with the brakes installed.

Using Scott Lydiard's Front Brake Lever Alignment Template

Using Scott Lydiard’s Front Brake Lever Alignment Template

Very nice.

Here are a couple more pictures from the write-up.

Front Brake Carrier (Front to the Right)

Front Brake Carrier (Front to the Right)

Front Brake Assembly

Front Brake Assembly

Rear Brake Cam Shaft Lever and Adjustment Cam

Front Brake Arm Cam with Lever and Adjustment Cam

Front Spring Installed and Shoes on Pivot Pins

Front Spring Installed and Shoes on Pivot Pins

Attaching Rear Spring Using Vice Grips

Attaching Rear Spring Using Vice Grips

Front Axle with Spacer Sleeve

Front Axle with Spacer Sleeve

Connecting Front Brake Arm

Connecting Front Brake Torque Arm to Brake Carrier Stud

Brake Cable Assembly at Right Control Perch

Brake Cable Assembly at Right Control Perch

Inserting Ferrule in Rear Brake Lever to Capture Outer Sleeve of the Cable

Inserting Ferrule in Rear Brake Lever to Capture Outer Sleeve of the Cable

Adjusting Lower Cable

Adjusting Lower Cable

Brakes Are Solid at 1/2 Distance to Handlebar

Brakes Are Solid at 1/2 Distance to Handlebar

1973 BMW R75/5 Rebuild: Install and Align Front Forks

So, now I’m ready to install the front forks and align them. You can read about how I did that work here.

Earlier, I rebuilt the front forks, refinished the sliders and replaced the steering head bearings. I also polished the steering damper knob and added a modern BMW emblem to the center of the knob. You can read about how I did that here:

It took me awhile (about 2 weeks) to complete the fork tube alignment process. I had to adjust the forks to get them parallel in both the X and Y Planes. And then they went out of parallel as I assembled the upper top brace and the headlight ears.  Some investigation showed that the rubber gaskets on the headlight ears changed the alignment of the upper brace. Small changes create misalignment, so patience is a virtue.

I’m pleased with the final product both in looks and improved alignment.

Here are a couple pictures from the write-up.

Steering Head after New Bearings Installed

Steering Head after New Bearings Installed

Fork Sliders, Top is Right Side, Bottom is Left Side with Axle Clamp Allen Head Screw

Fork Sliders, Top is Right Side, Bottom is Left Side with Axle Clamp Allen Head Screw

Forks Mounted and Lower Sliders Removed

Forks Mounted and Lower Sliders Removed

Positioning Glass on Fork Tubes

Positioning Glass on Fork Tubes for Y-Plane Alignment

Fork Alignment in Y-Direction

Fork Alignment in Y-Direction

X-Plane Measurement at Bottom of Tube

Fork Alignment in X-Direction

Clamping Forks Below Yolk to Adjust X-Plane Alignment

Clamping Forks Below Yolk to Adjust X-Plane Alignment

Lowers with Fork Brace Installed

Lower Slider with Fork Brace Installed

Steering Head Grunge & Damper

Original Steering Head Grunge and Scratched Damper Knob

Polished Damper Knob, Emblem and Polished Upper Brace

Polished Damper Knob, Emblem and Polished Upper Brace

Finished Upper Fork Brace with Damper and Handlebar Mounts

Finished Upper Fork Brace with Damper and Handlebar Mounts

Finished Upper Fork Brace with Damper and Handlebar Mounts

Finished Upper Fork Brace with Damper and Handlebar Mounts

1973 BMW R75/5 Rebuild: Some Refinishing Information

I’ve had several questions and Email about how I refinish the rough aluminum casting on the engine, transmission and rear drive and also some questions on how I got the carburetors to look shiny and new again.

NOTE: Refinishing is not rebuilding. Refinishing is restoring the surface of parts to “like new” condition. You are removing crud, stains, grime, dirt, grease, bugs, corrosion, tar, mud and old gasket sealer that have frequently been baked on for 10, 20, 30 or more years. It takes PATIENCE. It is applied Zen Smile

So, I put this together to illustrate some of the techniques I use on this project:

And, some After pics from the write-up:

Polished Hubcaps

Polished Hubcaps

New Rubber, New Spokes & Polished Wheels

New Rubber, New Spokes & Polished Wheels

Polished Engine

Refinished Engine Case and Timing Cover

Refinished Left Side

Refinished Transmission

Cleaned and Polished, Outside View

Cleaned and Polished, Outside View

Powder Coated Right Control Perch with Polished Lever

Powder Coated Right Control Perch with Polished Lever