I did not rebuild the rear drive or transmission, just refinish them. I did have to work on the transmission kick start and shift lever tapered bolts as they were very hard to remove due to scratches and burrs.
Here are a couple of the before and after pictures from the web pages.
As I was putting the handlebar assemblies back together, I discovered a stripped thread in the casting that holds the pinch bolt. I did a HeliCoil repair, which is the first time I have had to repair threads in an expensive part.
I wrote up a web page on the repair you can find in the column of web pages on the right and here is the link:
Here are a couple the pictures I took along the way.
Stripped Thread & Compression Bolt
Running Tap in from Back Side of Assembly
Threading the Insert into Tapped Hole From Backside of Assembly
Here are the finished left and right hand handlebar assemblies with new powder coating and polished levers. I think they are going to look very nice on the new handlebar.
Over the weekend, I dove into refinishing some of the high profile parts. I documented what I did in web pages under the “51” category for “Vehicle Trim”. There are pictures showing the before and after. The web pages are in the left navigation column, and here are the links.
I picked up the parts from Brad at BFN Industries, who did the powder coating. The total price was $190 and change for bead blasting and powder coating. I think the price was very reasonable as I got quotes of close to twice as much from some other power coating companies in the Denver area.
All the threaded holes look clear of coating and the passages in the handlebar perches also seem clear of coating. One area I need to clean up is a bit of over spray at the edges of the frame identification plate on the front of the steering head.
The battery box brackets were rough when I took them in and they show that after being coated, but that’s part of the story for a 40-year-old machine, isn’t it? 🙂
Here’s are some before pictures of the parts.
Frame Corrosion
Frame Corrosion
Battery Box Corrosion
Gunge on Rear of the Frame
Rust at Frame Gusset
Left Handlebar Perch
Right Handlebar Perch
Parts Going Out for Powder Coating
And here are some after pictures starting with the unwrapping.
Presents from the Powder Coater
Headlight Ears
Battery and License Plate Brackets
Handlebar Control Perches
Center Stand
Windjammer Faring Brackets
Frame and Sub-frame
Over Spray on Vehicle ID Plate – Need to Clean That Up
I also took a couple pictures of the “in Boxes” parts pile with restored/refinished parts. This is what I start from when I begin to reassemble the bike.
An R75/5 Disassembled Parts in Boxes and Bags
Faring Braket, Frame, Sub-frame and Engine
There is work to be done on the engine, transmission and clutch and more cleaning and polishing of a few items such as the steering damper knob below. But, I’m getting pretty close to that point we all read in a Haynes or Clymer manual, “Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.” 🙂
I got a note after the initial post to try Permatex Gasket Remover to soften and lift powder coat over spray. Here’s the stuff.
Permatex Gasket Remover with Applicator
It is pressurized and comes out very quickly when you push the button. I found it best to hold it upright with the brush at the top and press gently until the white liquid remover is visible on the brush. Then apply it where you need to remove powder coat. I cleaned up the badge on the steering head and then moved on to the frame, sub-frame and controls as a small amount of powder coat at the top or bottom thread was evident. When I only needed a small dab, I used a q-tip to apply the liquid remover just where I wanted it.
I put a little of the gasket remover on the bolt threads and then starting it in the hole. The gasket remover softened the powder coat in less than a minute and by working the bolt in and out of the thread, it cleared the powder coat very quickly.
Put Permatex on Threads of Swing Arm Pivot
Clearing Swing Arm Bushing Threads
This worked well for all the threaded holes. About 50% of them needed to be cleared at the start of the thread.
The rear brake bushing is a close fit to the brake pin since it holds grease. In this case, I used my Dremel tool with drum sander to clear out the powder coat. I forgot to indicate this hole should be blocked when I dropped the parts off.
Clearing Rear Brake Bushing
It took me about 2 hours to go over all the holes being sure bushings, bolts and such smoothly fit the threads.
Be careful using the gasket remover so you put it where you want it and it doesn’t inadvertently get onto the frame. Keep water and a sponge handy to wipe it off immediately if you get a dab in the wrong place.
I like the look of the powder coat, and clean up wasn’t a PITA. Based on the price and finish, I think powder coating is a viable option for painting tubes and small parts. I’ll have to see how well it wears over time.
