I have been delinquent working on this project for a few months. I got distracted with preparations for riding out to the 40th anniversary rally for the R65LS-R80G/S and then, I was lazy when I got back.
Below is my documentation of this work in write-ups and short videos.
NOTE: I edited the Remove Clutch video and reposted it on YouTube. If you use the older version of this blog, the link will fail. I edited the link below so it points to the new video.
This bike has a front master cylinder that is integrated into the Magura throttle assembly and a rear Brembo master cylinder. All three calipers are Brembo F-08 series with dual 38 mm pistons. I disassembled both master cylinders and inspected them. I repainted and rebuilt the rear master cylinder using a Brembo rebuild kit. Unfortunately, I found the front Magura master cylinder bore and internals were badly rusted and pitted, so I had to replace the front master cylinder rather than rebuild it. Even though I didn’t have to rebuild the front master cylinder, I show how you rebuild it and the rear master cylinder in this document.
I disassembled all three calipers, inspected them and found they were not corroded or pitted so I repainted and rebuilt them using a Brembo caliper rebuild kit. The same kit is used on all three calipers. You can see how I did that work here:
For some reason both tabs that help hold the left side cover on are broken off on the Sub-frame. I fabricated new ones out of some scrap steel lawn edging and had my son weld them to the sub-frame.
If you have to make this repair, here is how I made them.
I’m going to powder coat the swing arm, and the bike has 83,000+ miles on it. So I am removing the swing arm bearings and will replace them.
BMW used two different style bearings on the airhead swing arm: an unsealed 30203 bearing that was changed part way through the 1981 model year (01/1981) to a sealed bearing, FAG 540619. Changes in the swing arm bearing assemble were made at the start of the 1981 model year (09/1980) when the pivot pin was shortened and the dust cap changed to accommodate the 30203 bearing with the shorter pivot pin. Then in January 1981, the sealed bearing was added with it’s included dust cap.
I’ve removed the 30203 bearings before using the tool from Cycle Works.
Cycle Works Bearing Puller Kit
But it won’t fit inside the captive sleeve of the sealed bearing. And I can’t remove the inner race without a puller as it is captive due to the sealed bearing design. So I bought a set of blind bearing pullers for less than $60.00.
This kit has a slide hammer and a set of puller legs when more force–that will be required for the outer race extraction–is needed. There are various size expanding sleeves that cover a wide range of bearing diameters, so I bought it.
Less Than $60.00 Blind Bearing Puller Set
I made a collar so I could use the blind puller to remove the outer race. It cost me $7.00 in parts. I used it to remove on of the outer races and it worked nicely. So, if you have a set of blind bearing pullers, or buy a set like I did, you can remove the outer race by making your own collar.
Washer Rests On Edge Of Tube That Holds The Bearing
Blind Bearing Puller With Jaws Ready To Extract Outer Race
FAG Sealed Bearing Disassembled During Removal
Here is a link to the documentation I wrote about how I did this work.
I’m going to powder coat the swing arm so I need to remove the drive shaft. BMW used two different drive shaft designs on the airheads changing the design in the 1981 model year. This 1983 RS has the second design drive shaft.
Pre-1981 Drive Shaft Components and Swing Arm
Pre-1981 Drive Shaft With Tapered End That Shrink Fits Into Bell Coupling
Cycle Works Driveshaft Spring Compressor Tool 1981+
This the tool used to compress the drive shaft spring so I can remove the snap ring that secures large yoke with the bell coupling from the drive shaft.
1981+ Cycle Works Drive Shaft Removal Tool Components