I picked up the parts from Brad at BFN Industries, who did the powder coating.  The total price was $190 and change for bead blasting and powder coating.  I think the price was very reasonable as I got quotes of close to twice as much from some other power coating companies in the Denver area.

All the threaded holes look clear of coating and the passages in the handlebar perches also seem  clear of coating.  One area I need to clean up is a bit of over spray at the edges of the frame identification plate on the front of the steering head.

The battery box brackets were rough when I took them in and they show that after being coated, but that’s part of the story for a 40-year-old machine, isn’t it? 🙂

Here’s are some before pictures of  the parts.

Frame Corrosion

Frame Corrosion

Battery Box Corrosion

Gunge on Rear of the Frame

Rust at Frame Gusset

Left Handlebar Perch

Right Handlebar Perch

Parts Going Out for Powder Coating

And here are some after pictures starting with the unwrapping.

Presents from the Powder Coater

Headlight Ears

Battery and License Plate Brackets

Handlebar Control Perches

Center Stand

Windjammer Faring Brackets

Frame and Sub-frame

Over Spray on Vehicle ID Plate – Need to Clean That Up

I also took a couple pictures of the “in Boxes” parts pile with restored/refinished parts. This is what I start from when I begin to reassemble the bike.

An R75/5 Disassembled Parts in Boxes and Bags

Faring Braket, Frame, Sub-frame and Engine

There is work to be done on the engine, transmission and clutch and more cleaning and polishing of a few items such as the steering damper knob below.  But, I’m getting pretty close to that point we all read in a Haynes or Clymer manual, “Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.” 🙂

I got a note after the initial post to try Permatex Gasket Remover to soften and lift powder coat over spray.  Here’s the stuff.

Permatex Gasket Remover with Applicator

It is pressurized and comes out very quickly when you push the button.  I found it best to hold it upright with the brush at the top and press gently until the white liquid remover is visible on the brush.  Then apply it where you need to remove powder coat.  I cleaned up the badge on the steering head and then moved on to the frame, sub-frame and controls as a small amount of powder coat at the top or bottom thread was evident. When I only needed a small dab, I used a q-tip to apply the liquid remover just where I wanted it.

I put a little of the gasket remover on the bolt threads and then starting it in the hole.  The gasket remover softened the powder coat in less than a minute and by working the bolt in and out of the thread, it cleared the powder coat very quickly.

Put Permatex on Threads of Swing Arm Pivot

Clearing Swing Arm Bushing Threads

This worked well for all the threaded holes. About 50% of them needed to be cleared at the start of the thread.

The rear brake bushing is a close fit to the brake pin since it holds grease. In this case, I used my Dremel tool with drum sander to clear out the powder coat. I forgot to indicate this hole should be blocked when I dropped the parts off.

Clearing Rear Brake Bushing

It took me about 2 hours to go over all the holes being sure bushings, bolts and such smoothly fit the threads.  

Be careful using the gasket remover so you put it where you want it and it doesn’t inadvertently get onto the frame. Keep water and a sponge handy to wipe it off immediately if you get a dab in the wrong place.

I like the look of the powder coat, and clean up wasn’t a PITA. Based on the price and finish, I think powder coating is a viable option for painting tubes and small parts.  I’ll have to see how well it wears over time.