- Photo Inventory
- Summary of Bike’s Condition
- Plan At This Point
I took a large number of detailed pictures of the R100RS so I have a record of the original condition and to help when I can’t remember what part goes where. For instance, when painting, it’s nice to have pictures of the original pin stripe location on the parts, to confirm where oil leaks were, and to identify missing pieces of the bike. The slide show below contains the photo inventory I took of the bike.
The following is my summary of the condition. The red items will need attention.
Summary of Bike’s Condition
- Fairing paint has a large number of stone chips and missing paint.
- Fairing mounting hardware is not cracked or broken
- Fairing has no visible cracks
- Fairing right side rear view mirror bracket has paint missing
- Windscreen is not cracked or badly scratched but is very dirty
- Windscreen mounting bolts have white areas (stress concentrations)
- Seat pan is not rusted or cracked
- Tail section “R100RS” emblem is missing the white paint on the lettering
- Package rack is not broken
- Pannier frame on the left side has a broken weld
- Panniers have several cracks in the ABS plastic
- Battery box and lower frame gusset is rusty due to battery acid leaks
- Rear brake line bracket is rusted from battery acid leaks
- Battery box plastic battery nut, right side, is stripped and threaded upside down
- Headlight glass is not cracked or pitted
- Rubber boots around the fork legs are shot
- Forks have rubber gaiters that restrict the steering lock to lock
- Gas tank has no dents
- Gas tank paint is worn down to the bare metal at the rear due to rubbing on the seat.
- Gas tank paint is damaged around the filler cap and has some small rust spots
- Gas tank shows intact red rust protective coating
- Gas tank filler neck is rusty
- Gas cap and lock works
- Gas cap outer black seal is cracked
- Gas tank petcocks not leaking
- Gas tank petcocks black cover lettering white paint worn off
- Original front wheel chain and lock are in spine tube
- Dashboard is missing right and left labels
- Dashboard is not cracked
- Instrument cluster is not cracked
- Clock is not working
- Volt meter is working
- White lettering under center idiot light stack is worn off
- Rear vendor badges and signs under seat are intact and original
- Under seat storage compartment in tail is not broken
- Tire pump under seat
- Brown side stand installed
- Rear engine mount threads stripped on left side (Brown Side stand)
- Side stand original mount is very loose and wallowed out
- Side stand and center stand springs intact
- Center stand mounting bolts and bushings are not loose
- Rust on rear frame and rear foot peg bolts
- Foot peg rubber is not cracked or worn
- Swing arm bearing plastic caps are not missing
- Frame has rust, missing paint and stone chips
Steering and Front End
- Choke lever paint is worn off in places
- Rubber dash on handlebars is not ripped
- Steering damper knob is not broken
- Front brake reservoir is low
- Front brake reservoir is not cracked and is not leaking
- Lettering on left and right switch assemblies is missing in places
- Front brake lines are not corroded
- Front calipers show no leaks
- Front rubber brake lines show no cracks
- Front cast wheel color is chipped
- Rear brake lever works
- No fork oil leaks visible
- Under dash wiring connectors outer sheath has pulled back exposing wiring
- Wiring harness to headlight has no cracks in outer sheath
- Wiring connectors near battery outer sheath has pulled back exposing wiring
- All running lights work and turn signals flash
- Headlight works on low and high beam
- Push rod tubes leaking
- Oil pan gasket leaking a bit at rear
- Oil pan is very clean
- No oil leaks at valve covers
- Oil leak at bottom of front cover
- Valve cover paint has chips
- Bottom of valve covers do not show scrapes
- Pulse air system piping seems intact with no cracks in rubber hoses
- Air box metal hold down straps rusty
- Carburetor dome center round inserts rusty
- Carburetor dome screws are rusted
- Carburetor engine side very dirty and covered in crud
- Carburetor and choke cables bent with exposed outer sheath
- White paint on carburetor badges mostly missing
- Black float bowl on right carburetor. [New metal bowl in spare parts]
- Oil cooler bypass is not leaking
- Exhaust headers and cross over are very rusty
- Mufflers have some small dents
- Mufflers chrome has numerous stains
- Rear tail light and turn signals not cracked
- Rear fender not cracked
- San Jose fork brace installed
Transmission, Drive Shaft, Rear Drive
- Rusty transmission fill plug
- Some oil stains on back of transmission near drive shaft boot
- Oil at bottom and rear of transmission
- Tachometer cable boot is cracked
- Rear drive was painted black and paint is peeling
- Rear drive drain plug shows leaking
- Shift lever linkage is loose
Rear Brakes, Wheels
- Rear brake line bracket on frame under battery is rusted
- Rear brake reservoir is low
- Rear master cylinder shows no leaks
- Rear brake fluid reservoir hose looks very old
- Rear cast wheel color is chipped
- Some oil on rear wheel next to wheel bearing
- Some oil on rear brake bracket on rear axle
The VIN shows the bike was built on February 9, 1983. I found the original owners manual which included information about the original dealer inspection, the date of sale, the first 600 mile check.
The original owner was a Mr. Phil Salvatore in Granda Hills, California who bought the bike on April 20 1983.
In one week he had logged 689 miles and was ready for his 600 mile first service.
After carefully inspecting the the dealer stamps for the 5,000 and 10,000 mile inspections, I could make out the dates written underneath them, and added the dates to the margin. The original owner put 5,000 miles on the bike from April 26 through July 2 and the another 5,000 miles in one month. I suspect he went on a long ride on his summer vacation.
There are no other dealer inspections filled in after this. Perhaps the bike was sold, or the owner started to do his own maintenance.
The word “Cancel” was written across the limited warranty page. I’m not sure why.
Plan At This Point
I will do a major service and then I hope to ride the bike for awhile to get some impressions about how well the engine is running and the suspension is performing. Interestingly enough, a lot of the rubber is in good condition indicating that a previous owner cared for the bike. The following are currently work that needs to be done.
Carburetor, Petcock Rebuild & Refinish
Before I ride the bike for awhile, I’ll do a complete carburetor rebuild and refinish including repaint the white lettering on the carburetor badges. I’ll rebuild the Karcoma petcocks and refinish them.
Although I can’t know for sure, due to the mileage, I expect the valves and seats have been replaced, but when I pull them, I can confirm the condition.
I’ll pull the oil pan, inspect the oil pickup and replace the pan gasket. I’ll pull the pistons and likely replace the rings based on an inspection, I’ll replace the push rod tube seals, head and base gaskets.
I’ll inspect the front and rear engine seals, oil pump seal and cam shaft seal and replace as required.
Transmission, Clutch, Rear Drive
I’ll remove these and inspect the clutch for wear and the transmission seals for leakage. I’ll remove the black paint and refinish the rear drive.
Frame. Luggage Mounts & Swing Arm
I’ll powder coat these. I’ll fix the broken weld on the luggage mount. I’ll replace the rear engine mount with stripped threads.
I’ll inspect the disk brake pads and inspect the front and rear master cylinders and replace as needed. I’ll inspect the steel brake lines for rust and replace if required. I’ll replace the rubber brake line components.
I’ll inspect the rear main seal and oil pump cover for leakage and replace as necessary.
I’ll pull the fork tubes and inspect the internals. I may upgrade the fork to a cartridge damper. The rear shocks will likely be replaced as well. Wheel bearings will be inspected and adjusted.
The tape at the bottom of the voltage regulator is hanging, so it’s possible this has been worked on. The wiring harness will be removed so the frame can be powder coated. I’ll repair the outer plastic sheath where it is torn and separated from a connector body. I’ll need to repair/replace the clock.
It’s clear that the frame and body work will need repainting and the rims need repainting or powder coating. I’ll replace the missing stickers on the dashboard, repaint the white lettering under the indicator lights on the instrument cluster and the white paint on the raised lettering on the rear of the seat cowl.