Putting the mufflers on this bike is exhausting. [laugh track]. Okay, I just couldn’t resist that one.

I decided to replace the exhaust system due to the amount of corrosion I found on the original one. This year/model bike has two cross-over pipes while the earlier year airheads (before the 1981 model year, or before 09/1980) had a single cross-over pipe beneath the front engine cover. The rumor is the second cross-over pipe improves engine performance over the single pipe models. I got the exhaust system from Euro MotoElectrics

I also install the Brown’s side stand that came with the bike as it attaches to the left side header bracket and the front hole of the side stand bracket uses special bolt and nut supplied with the side stand. There is also a toothed washer for the rear hole that mounts on the rear engine stud with the standard nut to keep the side stand bracket from rotating on the engine stud.

Here is a link to the detailed installation procedure and a short video summary of the installation.

• 18 BMW 1983 R100RS Install Exhaust System

VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Install Exhaust System

Here are some pictures.

Header & Cross-Over Pipes From EME

Front Header Pipe (Top) Is Longer Than Rear Pipe (Bottom)

Exhaust Header Hardware

Brown’s Side Stand Installed

New Muffler Installed

New Headers And Cross-Over Installed

Installation of the steering damper mechanism is straight forward. One thing that you can get wrong is aligning the number on the damper rod with the correct position of the damper rack it adjusts. I show how to get that orientation correct.

Here is the link to the detailed procedure and to a short video summary of the installation process.

• 32 BMW 1983 R100RS Install Steering Damper Mechanism

VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Install Steering Damper Mechanism

I installed the rear fender assembly that includes the rear turn signals, tail light and brake light housing, the fender, mud flap and license plate bracket with side reflectors. This is easy work if you remove the rear wheel. But, there is a lot of hardware used and I show what goes where.

This is a link to the detailed documentation and a short video summarizing the work.

• 46 BMW 1983 R100RS Install Rear Fender Assembly

VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Install Rear Fender And Lights

Here are some pictures of the work.

Rear Fender Assembly Components With Exception Of License Plate Bracket

Front Bracket Hardware For Rear Fender

Rear Bracket Hardware For Rear Fender

Tail Light Housing & Turn Signal Mounting Hardware

Tail Light Reflector Wiring: GREY-Black is Parking, GREEN–Red Is Stop Light

Routing Of Sub-Harness on Left Side Of Rear Fender For Tail & Turn Signal Lights

All Done

All Done

I’m converting this RS model to a RT. The only difference in the brake system is the length of the hose from the front master cylinder to the front brake line manifold underneath the gas tank (RT: Part# 34 32 1 241 565; RS: Part# 34 32 1 241 564). Since the RT handlebars are wider, that hose is longer. The rear brake system is the same on both the RS and RT models.

Here is a link to the documentation of how I do this work.

• 34 BMW 1983 R100RS/RT Install Front Brake System

And this is a short video summarizing the procedure.

VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS/RT Install Front Brake System

I previously rebuilt the two front and one rear calipers and rebuilt the rear master cylinder. The front master cylinder was so badly corroded that I replaced it along with the entire right handlebar perch. I also installed the three disk brake rotors on the newly powder coated wheels. You can read about how I did that work here.

• 34 BMW 1983 R100RS Disassemble, Inspect & Rebuild Brembo Brake Calipers
• 34 BMW 1983 R100RS Disassemble, Inspect & Rebuild Master Cylinders
• 34 BMW 1983 R100RS Remove, Refinish, Install Disk Brake Rotors

Here is the link to showing how I install the rear brake system.

• 34 BMW 1983 R100RS Install Rear Brake System

I opted to use the mechanical front brake switch that mounts in the right perch instead of the original brake fluid pressure switch that mounts on the rear of the front brake manifold under the gas tank. The hole in the pressure switch can trap an air bubble making it more difficult to bleed the brakes.

I plugged the rear hole in the front brake line manifold where the front brake light pressure switch mounts.  McMaster-Carr sells a plug with copper crush washer that’s perfect for this.

McMaster-Carr Stainless Steel Plug With Copper Washer

Stainless Steel Plug Installed In Front Brake Line Manifold Hole For Pressure Switch

I now have brakes and the bike is getting pretty close to being finished.

Front Brake Line Manifold Connections

All Done-Left Side

All Done-Right Side

I’m converting this RS model to a RT. The only difference in the brake system is the length of the hose from the front master cylinder to the front brake line splitter underneath the gas tank as the RT handlebars are wider so that hose is longer. The rear brake system is the same on both the RS and RT models

I previously rebuilt the two front and one rear calipers and rebuilt the rear master cylinder. The front master cylinder was so badly corroded that I replaced it along with the entire right handlebar perch. I also installed the three disk brake rotors on the newly powder coated wheels. You can read about how I did that work here.

• 34 BMW 1983 R100RS Disassemble, Inspect & Rebuild Brembo Brake Calipers
• 34 BMW 1983 R100RS Disassemble, Inspect & Rebuild Master Cylinders
• 34 BMW 1983 R100RS Remove, Refinish, Install Disk Brake Rotors

Here is the documentation of how I install the rear brake system and a short video summary of the procedure.

• 34 BMW 1983 R100RS Install Rear Brake System

VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS/RT Install Rear Brake System

The master cylinder in on the right side while the rear brake caliper is on the left so there is a long steel brake line between the master cylinder and a bracket on the left, lower frame gusset where the flexible brake hose from the caliper attaches to the steel brake line. That’s a long run of brake line and I use my “Air Zapper” to help pull the air out of the line.

“Air Zapper” Vacuum Brake Bleeding Parts

I finished up bleeding the rear brake system by pumping the rear brake pedal and opening and closing the caliper bleed valve to get the last bit of air out of the system. I now have a solid rear brake all set to stop.

Rear Caliper Mounted And Ready To Stop

So next up is installing the front brake system.