I always mark the installation of the engine back into the frame as a happy milestone. At last, entropy is being reduced along with the parts pile in the corner.
Here is a short video showing how I install the engine.
VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Install The Engine In The Frame
Engine Block Securely Mounted On Harbor Freight Motorcycle Stand
I replaced the oil pan and the oil pump suction flange gaskets.
New Gaskets-Green Is Oil Pump Suction Flange Gasket
Along the way, I checked the oil pan to see if the mating surface was flat. It was not, so I sanded it and now it’s flat. That should go a long way to ensure the new pan gasket does not leak.
Checking For Uneven Mating Surface On Oil Pan
The gaskets I need are included in the EMC engine gasket kit. I’m also going to replace the oil pan bolts and wave washers with new stainless steel hardware I got in the bolt kit from “The Bolt Guy” for the RT model since I’m converting the RS to an RT, not that RT pan bolts are different from RS ones.
To prevent the threads of the stainless steel bolts from galling in the aluminum bolt holes in the engine block, I apply anti-seize. However, it’s a lubricant. Since the recommended torque for the bolts is 6 FT-Lbs, which is quite low, if I torque the lubricated stainless steel bolts to that value, I stand a good chance of stripping the threads. So I reduce the torque by 20% to protect the threads.
For low torque like this, I always use my INCH pound torque wrench.
I’m upgrading the charging system from the stock Bosch 240 watt alternator to the Euro MotoElectrics (EME) 400 watt, Type III charging system. This alternator uses the same design as the Bosch one with an electromagnetic rotor with brushes.
EME Type III 400 Watt Kit Components
I also decided to replace the stator cover, part# BOALT-StatFram107Plus and also replaced the battery (+) cable and the voltage regulator sub-harness. EME provides two cable kits: one has the battery (+) and (-) cables, part# BCK-475216 and the other has the voltage regulator and the charging system wires that connect to the diode board, part# BOALT-HAR80. The kit has some of the same wires included in the Type III charging system kit and is for the R80. But the voltage regulator sub-harness is the same as the one used on the R100 and the R80 kit is less expensive than the R100 kit as it has fewer wires.
EME 107 mm Complete Stator Housing
EME Battery (+) Cable Included In Battery Cable Kit
EMC BOALT-HAR80 Wiring Kit, BCK-475216
Here is what the completed installation looks like.
I completed installing all the parts behind the inner timing cover; the crankshaft timing sprocket and nose bearing, the timing chain and the chain tensioner and rubbing block. Then I installed the inner timing cover. Before installing the inner timing cover, I replaced the front main seal.
New Parts-(Top) Timing Chain Sprocket, Nose Bearing; (Bottom) Single Row Timing Chain
Timing Chain Tensioner and Rubbing Block Parts
New Front Main Seal
Inner Timing Cover Gasket and (2) Doughnut Gaskets (Green Inside Red Circle)
Starting Point
Sprocket, Nose Bearing and Timing Chain Installed
Newly Painted Inner Timing Cover Installed
This year engine uses the single row timing chain and comes with a master link which is very convenient. The older dual-row chains were continuous and I had to cut the chain to remove it which was a bit of a hassle.
I shot three short videos that summarize the procedure I documented in the write-up.
VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Install Crankshaft Sprocket and Nose Bearing
VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Install Timing Chain
VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Install Inner Timing Cover
If you have the older engine with dual-row timing chain, here are links to how I did the same work with the dual row chain. The procedure is pretty much the same. That said, the better method for removing the continuous dual-row chain is to use bolt cutters, not grind off two pins on a link, as that creates a lot of shrapnel that you have to clean up.
