I completed installing the rear end of the motorcycle. The fenders and rear lights will come in another post. You can read about how I did that work in these chapters of the “Assembly From The Frame Up” document:
I put together a page showing the order in which I am assembling the bike on this project. I will add to it as I go. In most of this document I link to other pages I posted, but for some work that is not particularly detailed, I show how to do the work in the Assembly page.
I also have documented the project work on a Project Index page that includes a list of every document I published for this project organized by parts fiche major component number.
Now I install the swing arm in the frame and then install the rear drive on the end of the drive shaft side of the swing arm. I show how I align the swing arm in the frame to reduce stress on the drive shaft when I install it. The rear drive mounts easily to the flange on the right side of the swing arm with four 12-sided nuts.
I decided to upgrade the fork top plate to a Toaster Tan fork top brace as I think it makes a sizable improvement in keeping the forks rigid and improves handling.
Toaster Tan Top Brace with Fork Tube Rings and Separate Steering Stem Cap Nut
Installing the fork top brace is part of the procedure for installing and aligning the front forks, so did all of this work at one time. But, I broke up the documentation into two parts covering the Toaster Tan fork top brace and the front fork installation and alignment.
Race Tech Cartridge Emulator Kit [Part#: FEGV S3301] with Separate Damper Rod Adapters [Part#: FPEV AD3301P]
This is the first time I have used them. I’ve heard that they make a significant improvement in handling and compliance compared to a damper rod design.
The stock springs can’t be used with the cartridge emulators so I install the correct Race Tech springs based on my specifications.
Race Tech Fork Spring Kit
You can read all the details of how I do this work here.
VIDEO: 1983 BMW R100RS Rebuild Forks with Race Tech Cartridge Emulators
I refreshed the wearable components using a fork rebuild kit I got from Tom Cutter at Rubber Chicken Racing Garage.
The damper rods have to be modified so there are six compression damping holes in the bottom of the rod. Race Tech supplies a piece of 3/4 inch PVC to make fork spring preload spacers to achieve the correct preload based on my specifications.
Damper Rod Showing Parts Order-(L) Bottom; (R) Top
Two Of The Four Additional Holes Drilled at 10 mm On Center and 90 Degrees Rotation From Each Other
I repainted the fork lower sliders as they had a lot of stone chips.