Thanks to Bob Fleischer, again, for tips and tricks and to Duane Ausherman.
I found a nifty template from Scott Lydiard (BMWScotter.com) that helped get the front brake levers aligned correctly on the brake levers. Scott’s site is having some problems but he was kind enough to provide a PDF of this template that I provide a link to in the write-up. Here’s a picture of the template.
Scott Lydiard’s Brake Lever Alignment Template
You can cut it out and use it with the brakes installed.
Using Scott Lydiard’s Front Brake Lever Alignment Template
Very nice.
Here are a couple more pictures from the write-up.
Front Brake Carrier (Front to the Right)
Front Brake Assembly
Front Brake Arm Cam with Lever and Adjustment Cam
Front Spring Installed and Shoes on Pivot Pins
Attaching Rear Spring Using Vice Grips
Front Axle with Spacer Sleeve
Connecting Front Brake Torque Arm to Brake Carrier Stud
Brake Cable Assembly at Right Control Perch
Inserting Ferrule in Rear Brake Lever to Capture Outer Sleeve of the Cable
Earlier, I rebuilt the front forks, refinished the sliders and replaced the steering head bearings. I also polished the steering damper knob and added a modern BMW emblem to the center of the knob. You can read about how I did that here:
It took me awhile (about 2 weeks) to complete the fork tube alignment process. I had to adjust the forks to get them parallel in both the X and Y Planes. And then they went out of parallel as I assembled the upper top brace and the headlight ears. Some investigation showed that the rubber gaskets on the headlight ears changed the alignment of the upper brace. Small changes create misalignment, so patience is a virtue.
I’m pleased with the final product both in looks and improved alignment.
Here are a couple pictures from the write-up.
Steering Head after New Bearings Installed
Fork Sliders, Top is Right Side, Bottom is Left Side with Axle Clamp Allen Head Screw
Forks Mounted and Lower Sliders Removed
Positioning Glass on Fork Tubes for Y-Plane Alignment
Fork Alignment in Y-Direction
Fork Alignment in X-Direction
Clamping Forks Below Yolk to Adjust X-Plane Alignment
Lower Slider with Fork Brace Installed
Original Steering Head Grunge and Scratched Damper Knob
Polished Damper Knob, Emblem and Polished Upper Brace
Finished Upper Fork Brace with Damper and Handlebar Mounts
Finished Upper Fork Brace with Damper and Handlebar Mounts
I’ve had several questions and Email about how I refinish the rough aluminum casting on the engine, transmission and rear drive and also some questions on how I got the carburetors to look shiny and new again.
NOTE: Refinishing is not rebuilding. Refinishing is restoring the surface of parts to “like new” condition. You are removing crud, stains, grime, dirt, grease, bugs, corrosion, tar, mud and old gasket sealer that have frequently been baked on for 10, 20, 30 or more years. It takes PATIENCE. It is applied Zen
So, I put this together to illustrate some of the techniques I use on this project:
Well, I now have the rear brakes installed and am working on getting the rear sub-frame on the bike. When I get that done, I’m going to move on to the front forks and steering.
Here is the write-up on installing the rear brakes, rear brake pedal and mounting the polished rear wheel with the new stainless steel spokes and the powder coated battery box: