When replacing the oil pan gasket, I also cleaned the oil pickup screen and checked to be sure the bolts holding the pickup are tightened to the proper torque, 72 INCH/Pounds, not FOOT/Pounds. I used an INCH/Pound torque wrench on them and also on the oil pan bolts which were set to 70 INCH/Pounds in several stages. These bolts are easy to strip out unless you use an INCH/Pound torque wrench.
I put in new points and a condenser when I replaced the cam shaft seal and replaced the timing plate machine screws with two Allan head cap screws, M4x0.7×10. Now its easy to adjust the timing plate points cam with the centrifugal advance weights installed with a small Allan head wrench. And, I won’t be wallowing out the slot on machine screws as happened in the past.
I used my larger adjustable seal puller to remove the camshaft seal, but it makes me nervous since the camshaft seal is small and I don’t want to score the camshaft. After I got the camshaft seal pulled, I looked for a puller for small seals. I found a very promising one, Lisle 58430 shaft seal puller. It’s available at some auto parts stores, but I ordered mine from Amazon.
Lisle 58430 Shaft Seal Puller
I think this will work very well on future seal pulling jobs.
Here are a few pictures of the work.
Replacing Oil Pan Gasket
Engine on Side to Remove Dirty Oil Pan
Permatex Gasket Remover Soaking In
Checking Torque (72 INCH/pounds) on Oil Pickup Bolts
Clean & Polished Pan Mating Surface
Clean Oil Pan with New Pan Gasket
Replacing Camshaft Seal
Leaking Cam Shaft Seal
Points Removed and Timing Plate Ready to Remove
Old Seal
Driving Cam Shaft Seal with 5/8 Inch Spark Plug Socket
I decided to replace the original clutch after inspecting it and measuring the parts. Many were close to, or past, the minimum thickness. You can read about the procedure I used to install the new clutch in this web page:
I posted a new page on removing the flywheel, replacing the rear main seal, oil pump cover and cover o-ring and installing the flywheel. This also covers a repair to a leak I found in one of the crankshaft flywheel bolt holes.
After I had removed the engine, I removed the clutch to inspect it. Based on the inspection and information I found on Duane Ausherman’s site, I decided to replace the entire clutch.
Here is the web page I wrote up on removing and inspecting the clutch.
I’ll document the installation of a new clutch when I complete the work in another web page.
I’d like to acknowledge folks who regularly participate on the BMW Airhead forum on Micapeak. In particular, Tom Cutter who runs Rubber Chicken Racing Garage and Bob (Snowbum) Fleischer who has a great technical library on all things BMW motorcycles, answered questions I posted on the Micapeak forum and in personal Email and phone conversations. Their knowledge makes the life of a “hobbyist”, such as I, less stressful and much more fun.
Here are a couple of pictures from the web page writeup.
Bar Preventing Rotation When Removing Clutch Bolts
Backing Off Clutch Pressure 1/2 Turn Per Bolt at a Time
Clutch Parts Order: Bottom Clutch Pressure Ring, Top Clutch Diaphragm Spring
Diaphragm Spring Finger-Wear on Edges
Clutch Pressure Plate Facing Engine Showing Grooves from Diaphragm Spring
I thought I would provide a progress report on this project. There has been a lapse in my posts. My wife and I spend six weeks in Europe (all of June) with three of those weeks engaged in “applied motorcycling” as we rode on two guided motorcycle tours. The first was in eastern Europe riding in parts of the former Yugoslavia, Bulgaria and Albania. Here’s my trip report, A Motorcycle Tour of Eastern Europe: “Combat Touring” in the Balkans. And the second was in the Pyrenees and I’ll be posting a trip report on that ride soon.
After returning, there were a number of things to get on top of including a major landscaping project, and all of a sudden, it’s early August. I finally got back into the shop this week and started by reviewing what I had completed so far (see the work plan below).
I was able to remove the clutch and flywheel just before I left for Europe. Upon inspection of the clutch, I decided to replace it. I ordered the parts from Tom Cutter at Rubber Chicken Racing Garage and they came in just before I left. I’ll start work on replacing the rear main seal and oil pump cover o-ring and then getting the flywheel and clutch back into the engine block and I’ll post a web page on that work soon.
I decided to go back to the carburetors and replace the screws on the top covers with new stainless steel ones. Some of the slots in the screws had been enlarged so time to get that taken care of. And, I wanted to add the spring on top of the slide that was included staring in 1977. I’ve heard this improves smoothness and I did the same upgrade to the carburetors in the R75/6 project. I’ll update the carburetor rebuild page to include this.
Here’s the spring and how I installed it.
1977 Carburetor Spring
Carburetor Spring on Top of Slide
Spring Installed Between Slide and Top
I also tried a little trick to ensure the throttle screws on both carburetors are just touching the tab on the throttle shaft. I slipped a piece of paper between the tab and the top of the adjusting screw and then tightened the screw until I could just feel the drag on the paper. I always have a hard time ensuring the screws are evenly touching the tab when the carburetors are mounted, so this way they are even before I install them.
Using Paper To Adjust Throttle Screw So it Just Touches the Tab
Here is the progress on the task list so far. The good news is there are more check marks since the last report in March. But, there are still quite a few tasks to keep me busy 🙂
