Now that I have replaced the rear main seal, oil pump cover and cover o-ring, it’s time to clean up the leaking pan gasket. I have the engine out of the frame, so I’m just going to tip it on it’s side to get at the pan and bolts holding it to the engine block.
Removing the Oil Pan
There are 14 10mm bolts. I loosened them in a cross-wise pattern and was careful that the pan didn’t fall to the ground and ding the edge of the pan. This exposes the inside of the engine.
The large screen is attached to the oil pickup that goes to the oil pump. Just behind it you can see the camshaft which connects to the oil pump on one the left end and to the points on the right end.
Cleaning the Pan, Loosening the Pan Gasket
Now, time to clean the grunge off everything and to remove the old pan gasket. I took the pan to the parts washer and started removing the crusty layers of crud.
When I removed the pan, the gasket stayed in one piece and was attached to the top of the pan. I applied a liberal amount of Permatex Gasket Remover to the gasket and let it soak in. In about 30 minutes, I added a second application after it had partially soaked in and let it sit for another 30 minutes.
In the meantime, I removed the oil pickup screen to clean it. I carefully pulled up on the wire retaining bail with pliers so I didn’t bend it and removed the screen. Then I scrubbed the screen in the parts washer and soaked the pan bolts in ChemTool B12 Carburetor cleaner. THIS IS NASTY STUFF. I use gloves whenever I handle it.
Check Torque on Oil Pickup Bolts
As the pan bolts soaked, I took my INCH/Pound torque wrench and checked that the bolts holding the oil pickup were not loose. After all these years, its a good idea to be sure those bolts are snug and haven’t gotten loose. I set the torque to 72 INCH/pounds and got one to snug just a bit.
Remove Pan Gasket
After an hour of letting the Permatex soak into the pan gasket, I took a 1 inch wide paint scraper and checked to see if I could get it between the gasket and the edge of the oil pan. It slipped in pretty easy and I carefully pushed it around the edge of the pan to get the old gasket off.
Installing New Pan Gasket
There is still some old glue and gasket on the edge. I added more gasket remover and let it sit for 15 minutes and then carefully scrapped along the edge of the pan with very little pressure to clean the glue and gasket off the pan. I followed this up with “000” steel wool. Then I cleaned it all up with brake cleaner so it shined.
I did the same thing to the edge of the engine block so the edge was clean and shiny. I also checked the edges of the pan and the block for any nicks or high spots and found none. Then I put the screen and wire bale back on.
I removed the bolts from the carburetor cleaner and lightly buffed the threads with my fine wire wheel to be sure they were clean. Time to put the gasket on the pan. It goes one way with the lettering facing you.
Torquing Pan Bolts
Then starting in the middle of the pan I threaded bolts in a cross-wise pattern. At each stage of bolt tightening, I continue to do it in the same cross-wise pattern. I finger tightened them so they were all snug and the pan was centered on the gasket. Then, I set the torque wrench to only 20 INCH/Pounds and gently tightened the bolts. Then I increased to 40 INCH/Pounds and finished up at 70 INCH/Pounds. Here is the final product.
Not quite polished enough to shave in, but nice and clean.