I picked up the parts from Brad at BFN Industries, who did the powder coating. The total price was $190 and change for bead blasting and powder coating. I think the price was very reasonable as I got quotes of close to twice as much from some other power coating companies in the Denver area.
All the threaded holes look clear of coating and the passages in the handlebar perches also seem clear of coating. One area I need to clean up is a bit of over spray at the edges of the frame identification plate on the front of the steering head.
The battery box brackets were rough when I took them in and they show that after being coated, but that’s part of the story for a 40-year-old machine, isn’t it? 🙂
Here’s are some before pictures of the parts.
And here are some after pictures starting with the unwrapping.
I also took a couple pictures of the “in Boxes” parts pile with restored/refinished parts. This is what I start from when I begin to reassemble the bike.
There is work to be done on the engine, transmission and clutch and more cleaning and polishing of a few items such as the steering damper knob below. But, I’m getting pretty close to that point we all read in a Haynes or Clymer manual, “Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.” 🙂
I got a note after the initial post to try Permatex Gasket Remover to soften and lift powder coat over spray. Here’s the stuff.
It is pressurized and comes out very quickly when you push the button. I found it best to hold it upright with the brush at the top and press gently until the white liquid remover is visible on the brush. Then apply it where you need to remove powder coat. I cleaned up the badge on the steering head and then moved on to the frame, sub-frame and controls as a small amount of powder coat at the top or bottom thread was evident. When I only needed a small dab, I used a q-tip to apply the liquid remover just where I wanted it.
I put a little of the gasket remover on the bolt threads and then starting it in the hole. The gasket remover softened the powder coat in less than a minute and by working the bolt in and out of the thread, it cleared the powder coat very quickly.
This worked well for all the threaded holes. About 50% of them needed to be cleared at the start of the thread.
The rear brake bushing is a close fit to the brake pin since it holds grease. In this case, I used my Dremel tool with drum sander to clear out the powder coat. I forgot to indicate this hole should be blocked when I dropped the parts off.
It took me about 2 hours to go over all the holes being sure bushings, bolts and such smoothly fit the threads.
Be careful using the gasket remover so you put it where you want it and it doesn’t inadvertently get onto the frame. Keep water and a sponge handy to wipe it off immediately if you get a dab in the wrong place.
I like the look of the powder coat, and clean up wasn’t a PITA. Based on the price and finish, I think powder coating is a viable option for painting tubes and small parts. I’ll have to see how well it wears over time.
Looking slick! How do you plan to clea the coating on the ID plate?
I going to use fine sandpaper, 1000 grit or 1500 grit, to get it off without damaging the plate. I had to clean a bit off the chrome cover plate of the fork lock, and 1500 grit seemed to work. Since this is baked on, it adheres very well.
I have read somewhere that Permatex Gasket Remover will take off powder coating.
It might be worth a try.
Oh, that’s interesting. I will give that a try and update the post if it works. Thanks for sharing that idea.
………or heat the over sprayed area locally and wipe it off.
Sweet! My 85 R80 is starting to show surface corrosion on frame and else where. I’m in FL so the sea does a number. Do you have your powder boaters info? Thanks for sharing.
Sure. Just click the link in this post where it says “BFN Industries”. However, I’m in metro-Denver, CO. I suspect you can find a local shop and avoid packing, shipping, etc.