It has links to other documents that describe how to remove various assemblies such as the electrical system, brakes, drive train, engine etc. Although not included in this document, there will be other documents that cover details about the disassembly and rebuilding of some of the components removed in this document; e.g., the master cylinder, disk calipers, wheel bearings, etc.
I got the bike in November 2021 as a project bike. Consequently, a number of parts were not installed on the bike so I won’t be showing how to remove them. Nonetheless, I list the removal of parts in the order that I would have removed them so you can use this document as a guide for removing all the parts from the bike to strip it down to the frame.
As Delivered To Brook’s Airhead Garage
Additional Parts That Had Been Removed
After I finished disassembling it and storing parts in bins, this is what it looks like.
I mount the RS fairing pockets on the RT fairing using the existing bushings that the plastic fairing compartments mounts to. There is enough room between that part of the RT fairing and the gas tank that the bags won’t touch the gas tank when they are mounted.
Side Of Fairing Showing Bushings For M6 Bolts Used To Mount Stock Plastic Fairing Compartments: Note Rear Top Bushing Is Shorter Than The Others
I mount the bags using three M6 bolts with a flat and wave washer to the side of the fairing.
Back Of Bag With Three Grommets Installed
Bag Mounting Hardware: M6-10 Bolt, Flat and Wave Washers
M6x10 Bolts Installed Through Grommets In Bag
Bag Mounted On Inside of Fairing Leaving Clearance Next To Gas Tank
This bike has 83,000+ miles on it and the wheel bearings are of unknown condition. So I replace them and set the wheel bearing preload. I also had the wheels powder coated after I removed the old bearings, so I had to also remove the disk brake rotors. I show how I remove, refinish and install the disk brake rotors in this document.
I’m going to replace the main wiring harness. This requires removing a number of connections inside the headlight shell, pulling the old harness out of the headlight shell and then installing the new harness and connecting the wires to the proper terminals on the wiring block, the headlight relay and the turn signal relay. You do not have to remove the connections from the left and right handlebar switches to replace the main wiring harness.
Bur, since I am converting this 1983 R100RS into an RT configuration and the RT handlebars are much longer than the RS bars, the stock RS handlebar switch wires are too short; 230 mm (9 inches) vs.the RT switch’s 520 mm (20 inches). However, someone replaced the left handlebar switch with an RT length switch, so that’s fortunate. But the right handlebar switch, that was also replaced at some point, has shorter 380 mm (about 15 inches) wires; they are longer than RS wires, but still too short. Since BMW does not sell the RT switches anymore, I will lengthen the wires in the right handlebar switch cable.