The damper rods have to be modified so there are six compression damping holes in the bottom of the rod. Race Tech supplies a piece of 3/4 inch PVC to make fork spring preload spacers to achieve the correct preload based on my specifications.
Damper Rod Showing Parts Order-(L) Bottom; (R) Top
Two Of The Four Additional Holes Drilled at 10 mm On Center and 90 Degrees Rotation From Each Other
I repainted the fork lower sliders as they had a lot of stone chips.
This bike has 83,000+ miles on it and the wheel bearings are of unknown condition. So I replace them and set the wheel bearing preload. I also had the wheels powder coated after I removed the old bearings, so I had to also remove the disk brake rotors. I show how I remove, refinish and install the disk brake rotors in this document.
I’m going to powder coat the wheels, so I remove the disk brake rotors. I refurbish the three rotors to remove grunge and get the patina on the disk carriers back to factory condition. I also clean out the holes and sand the disks so the new disk pads will bed in and not get fouled from brake pad grunge baked onto the rotors or the dirt and grunge lodged inside the disk brake rotor holes.
Here are all the details about how I do this work and a short video summarizing the work.
When I had the heads rebuilt by Randy Long I had him modify them for dual plugs. I have made that modification on two other bikes and I like the improvement in gas mileage and the smooth running even on lower octane gas. So I have to replace the stock coils with coils that have two secondary ports so each coil connects to two spark plug wires.
This bike came with a BMW electronic ignition that includes a “bean can” with Hall effect sensors that act like mechanical points.
BMW Stock Ignition Sensor (aka “Bean Can”) with Hall Effect Sensors
The Hall effect sensors use a rotating magnetic field to open an electronic switch in the Hall effect sensor to stop current flow in the coil primary triggering a large voltage in the coil secondary. This is exactly what mechanical points do to trigger a high voltage spark in the spark plugs.
There have been some issues with the BMW electronic ignition. One in particular is that Hall effect sensors do not like heat and fail over time. When they do, you are stranded unless you have a second bean can with you. You can’t remove and disassemble the bean can by the side of the road.
I decided to remove the stock BMW ignition system and install a system that uses an optical switch for the points and a electronic ignition control module from Euro MotoElectrics. The ignition control module has three different ignition advance curves you can select from including one that works well with dual plug engines.
EME Optical-Electronic Ignition Kit
Since I have dual plug heads, I also install dual port coils.
EME Enduralast 1.5 Ohm Dual-Port Coils with Hardware
The steering head bearings are roller bearings. But, roller bearings rely on the roller rotating to keep distributing grease between the roller and the outer race to prevent metal-on-metal contact. However, the front forks spend most of their time in one position and are subject to shock loads as the front end goes over bumps. This means grease gets extruded from between the rollers in the inner race and the outer race allowing metal-to-metal contact, and the shock loads pound the roller against the outer race creating grooves in the race. This creates notchy steering, and when it’s really bad, you can feel resistance when trying to turn the forks from the center position.
When I removed the steering head bearings, they showed the distinctive vertical stripes indicating the outer race has Brinelling, which is the groove pounded into the outer race.
Original Bottom Outer Race Showing Moderate Brinelling
I use the Cycle Works tools for removing and installing the steering head bearings. See the “Replace Steering Head Bearings” section below for a link that shows the Cycle Works tools are assembled and used.
Cycle Works Outer Race Puller Plate Parts
Cycle Works Steering Stem Lower Bearing Puller/Install Tool Parts
Cycle Works Outer Bearing Race Installation Tool Parts
I removed the old outer races and the inner race on the bottom of the steering stem. Then I refinished the lower fork brace and then installed the new lower inner bearing race and then installed the steering stem in the steering head.
Cycle Works Draw Bar Top Cover Detail Used To Install Top Outer Race
Looks Like Wheel Bearing Grease Was Used and Melted Making A Mess
Pulling The Lower Inner Race
Refinished Lower Fork Brace Looking Like New Again
Steering Stem Nut Installed on Steering Stem
Here is a link to the description of how I do this work