BMW Fairing Plastic Repair with Plast-Aid

My R1150-RS had a minor tip over, but it broke the upper fairing and also cracked one of the tabs that the left, front turn signal screws into. 🙁

Cracked Upper Fairing

Cracked Upper Fairing

Broken Tab for Turn Signal Mounting Screw

Broken Tab for Turn Signal Mounting Screw

I used Plast-aid to attach the wiring bulk head connector in a Windjammer II fairing with great success. Vetter used ABS plastic in the Windjammer fairings. I believe BMW is using ABS or a similar plastic for the body work, so Plast-aid will work well with it. It worked so well on the R1150-RS repair that a few months later, I used it to repair a number of cracks in BMW touring cases (aka, Krauser panniers).

Repairing Broken Screw Tab

I use a washer to help reinforce the srcew tab. Plast-aid will mechanically bond to steel, particularly if it has been roughed up with 100 grit wet/dry paper.

Tab Piece, Washer for Reinforcement and Mounting Screw

Tab Piece, Washer for Reinforcement and Mounting Screw

I mix up a small amount of Plast-aid. It changes consistency as the chemical reaction progresses. I wait a minute or two until it is the consistency of pancake batter. While I wait, I put some of the liquid component on the edge of the tab and the remaining edge on the fairing to promote good adhesion. When the Plast-aid has stiffened a bit, I put some on the edge of the broken tab. I hold it against the remaining tab surface of the fairing until it stays put, about 2 more minutes. I use the rest of the Plast-aid, smear some on the washer and the apply it to the back side of the tab for reinforcement. I hold this in place for another couple of minutes and I’m done.

Reinforcing Washer Glued On

Reinforcing Washer Glued On

Repairing Cracked Fairing

The fairing crack repair needs reinforcement. I use a small piece of fiber glass mat and shape it to fit behind the crack. There is a small brace above the crack that reinforces the other screw hole for the turn signal and I anchor the fiber glass against it and down across the crack.

Fiberglass Cut to Size For Reinforcement

Fiberglass Cut to Size For Reinforcement

I mix up a larger amount of Plast-aid and apply some of the liquid component along the edge of the crack to improve adhesion . I put some on the edge of the crack, aline the edges so they are tight and put some masking tape over the crack to hold the pieces together.

Masking Tape to Hold Edges Together

Masking Tape to Hold Edges Together

I put the fiber glass into the Plast-aid when it is the consistency of Elmer’s Glue to soak some into the openings of the fiber glass. I put it on the back side of the fairing, and add some more Plast-aid using a Popsicle stick. I have to hold the patch in place for a minute or so using a finger and the Popsicle stick. When it becomes very firm and the fiber glass stays put, I’m all done.

Plast-aid Soaked Fiberglass On the Back Side of Crack

Plast-aid Soaked Fiberglass On the Back Side of Crack

Here is the final repair. It will need to be sanded, some bondo used to fill in the scratches and painted. But that’s a job for another day when I setup my temporary paint booth again.

Final Repair-Just Needs Painting

Final Repair-Just Needs Painting

1983 BMW R100RS Rebuild: Pannier Plastic & Latch Repair

In 1983, the R100RS came with BMW branded panniers, or saddle bags. Mine have a number of cracks and a broken lid hinge. While I’m waiting for some fork parts to come, I started to repair the panniers. My goal was to try and make the crack repairs invisible.  I think I got a B+ this time and learned a lot about how to create the textured surface in the plastic on the outside of the pannier.

I’ve tried a plastic repair product, Plast-aid, before to fix the bulkhead connector on a Windjammer fairing. I’m using it on the panniers. It can be colored using Acrylic paint so the Plast-aid color will match the black panniers.  I also fixed a broken latch assembly and learned about locks and keys and how to figure out what key you need for a lock. Here is the link to the write-up on what I did.

I discovered that two different keys are not enough for all the pannier locks. Some have been replaced so I have four different locks needing four different keys. I posted a note to the Micapeak  Airheads forum about this and learned that the latch locks are no longer available, but, Larry Stonestreet, owner of Stoner’s Beemer Stash [[email protected]; 951-813-1704]  has the keys I need. So all’s good. There is a nice page on Bob Fleischer’s site about the locks and keys BMW has used with part numbers of the various keys.

Here are some pictures from the write-up.

Double Latch Cracks

Double Latch Cracks

Mulitple Corner Cracks

Crushed Corner With Multiple Cracks

Double Latch Crack Final Repair

Double Latch Crack Final Repair

Crushed Corner Final Repair

Crushed Corner Final Repair

Plast-Aid and Black Acrylic Paint for Tinting

Plast-Aid and Black Acrylic Paint for Tinting

Round Dremel Bit for Widening Back of Crack

Round Dremel Bit for Widening Back of Crack

Dremel Engraving Tool #106-A Bit Too Big

Dremel Engraving Tool #106 to Etch Texture Into Plastic-A Bit Too Big, #105 Is Better

JB Weld Applied to Lock Mechanism Hinge Plate

JB Weld Applied to Lock Mechanism Hinge Plate

Pannier #1 Latch Locks Use Key #069

Pannier #1 Latch Locks Use Key #069

Panniers Mounted

Panniers Mounted

Panniers Mounted

Panniers Mounted

Panniers Mounted

Panniers Mounted

1983 BMW R100RS Rebuild: Replace Choke and Throttle Cables

When I did the inspection of the bike, the throttle and choke cables looked pretty worn with kinks showing in the outer armor. The Bowden connector rubber boots are disintegrating. I’m replacing the cables before riding the bike as I don’t want a stuck throttle or broken cable to happen. I found removing the cables from the Bowden connector required a little technique, but once I figured this out for the choke, the throttle was done pretty quickly.

Here is the procedure I followed:

Here are a couple before and after pictures.

Choke Lever Removed from Housing

Choke Lever Removed from Housing (Note Broken Strand in Choke Cable)

Choke Bowden Connector on Left Side

Choke Bowden Connector on Left Side With Disintegrating Rubber Boot

Choke Cable Part Numbers

Choke Cable Part Numbers

Assembled Choke Bowden Cable

Assembled Choke Bowden Cable

I’m completing a front fork rubber cup replacement and check of the fork alignment. I hope to post that soon. After that, I think the bike is ready for my first ride.

1983 BMW R100RS Rebuild: Bing Type 94 Carburetor & Karcoma Petcock Rebuild/Refinish

You know, being retired just seems to leave no time to work in the shop. I end up doing all sorts of things and the next thing you know, time for bed.  Anyway, I finally wrote up the Bing carburetor rebuild/refinish work I did on the 1983 R100RS project.

When I rebuilt a 1973 BMW R75/5, I covered the procedure I used to rebuild the Bing type 64 carburetors, which are 32 mm, and the Karcoma petcocks. The R100RS has type 94 carburetors that are 40 mm and the Karcoma petcock outlet is 90 degrees from the inlet instead of directly underneath the inlet as for the R75/5. After 10 years, the designs are essentially the same, but there are some differences which I cover in the procedure write-up.

Here is the link to the R100RS Bing type 94 rebuild/refinish procedures.

The R100RS write-up contains links to the R75/5 procedures for the Bing type 64 carburetor and notes any differences or changes in how I did the work on the R100RS carburetors. Here is the link to the R75/5 type 64 carburetor rebuild/refinish procedures.

The combination of these two write-ups covers the type 64, 32 mm (64/32/10, right side and 64/32/9, left side) and the R100RS type 94, 40 mm (94/40/114, right and 94/40/113, left) carburetors.

I hope this material makes it straight forward for folks to rebuild these carburetors who may have been afraid to tackle a carburetor rebuild. Here are some before and after pictures of the carburetors.

Before Rebuild/Refinish

Before-Left Carburetor

Before-R100RS Type 94 Left Carburetor

Rusty Screws and Cap on Dome

Engine Side of Carburetor

Grunge and Fuel Stains

Float Bowl Removed

Float Bowl Removed, Missing Paint on Emblem

After Rebuild/Refinish

Engine Side of Restored / Rebuilt Carburetor

Engine Side of Restored / Rebuilt Carburetor

Top Side of Restored / Rebuilt Carburetor

Top Side of Restored / Rebuilt Carburetor

Outlet Side of of Restored / Rebuilt Carburetor

Outlet Side of of Restored / Rebuilt Carburetor

Carburetor Mounted - Clean

After-R100RS Type 94 Rebuilt and Refinished Carburetor

1983 BMW R100RS Rebuild: Project Start

In January, I found my next project bike, a 1983 R100RS with 83,382 miles on the odometer. The bike was build on February 9, 1983 and delivered to RPM Motorcycles in Ventura, CA on March 1, 1983.

1983 R100RS Project Bike

1983 R100RS Project Bike

Original Dealer Prep Date, March 1, 1983 (European Date Form)

Original Dealer Prep Date, March 1, 1983 (European Date Form)

I created a project index page where I’ll post links to the procedure write-ups as I work on the project. I’ll also post short introductory blogs for each phase of the work as I did for the 1973 R75/5 restoration project I completed on July 4, 2014.

This is the link to my initial inspection and extensive “before” photos I took.

Based on the inspection, I plan to do a major service, carburetor and petcock rebuild, and any other essential maintenance. Then I will ride the bike for a couple hundred miles so I have a baseline for how the bike runs and handles before I dive into the rebuild.